UPDATE: Goemon closed permanently in November 2015.
Hidden away in Hakusan, this Kyoto-style tofu restaurant is one of Tokyo’s best-kept secrets. The entrance is lined with bamboo and the garden has a waterfall, carp ponds and a couple of rustic bowers where you can sit in clement weather. The winter speciality is yudofu (piping hot tofu in broth); in summer, try the hiya yakko (chilled tofu). This is not the place for a rushed meal; last orders are taken two hours before closing time.