Chef Tatsuya Ishiyama has over a decade of experience at Kagurazaka’s two-Michelin- starred Ren, so it makes sense that Arakicho Tatsuya feels like an establishment with a much longer history. But Ishiyama only opened this one-man operation in late 2017.
Arakicho Tatsuya is a kaiseki restaurant at heart, with all the trimmings to prove it: austere counter, gorgeous crockery and of course, sublime and beautiful food made from premium ingredients minimally tweaked to bring out the best possible flavour. A taster: watershield surrounded by dashi- and soy- infused jelly, topped with squid sashimi soaked in egg yolk and shellfish. The flavours are gobsmacking.
Yet there’s no stuffy formality here. Ishiyama takes pride in creating connections, both with his customers and his surroundings. His goal is to connect the customer with the vendor, by showcasing the best of Japan through his food. Although the menu is non-negotiable – vegetarians take note – the drink list leaves room to manoeuvre: there are no official 'pairings' here, only a long list of Japanese sake, shochu, whisky and wine, which Ishiyama will recommend based on your preferences.