A thoroughly great hotel. Leave Tokyo’s high-earning business travelers to swarm around the myriad luxury options by Tokyo Station, visitors wanting a cooler, more boutique-y, more discerning experience would do well to look east, towards Shibuya’s western fringe. It’s there you’ll find Tomigaya, a trendy, fashion-conscious neighborhood that’s both intimate and local while also tangibly cutting edge and exciting. And Trunk(Hotel), with its compact seven-story structure (courtesy of celebrity architect Keiji Ashizawa), washed concrete surfaces and designer furniture, suits the place to a tee.
There are 25 rooms (including five suites), and if you are presented with a choice, do choose the ones that overlook Yoyogi Park. To wake up in Tokyo (a beautiful city nevertheless synonymous with urban sprawl), overlooking a massive green space is a wonderful and surreal experience. And even if you can’t manage a park-side room you’ll still have access to what might be the hotel’s crowning achievement: its show-stopping rooftop bar and heated infinity pool. Elegant, pared-back and stunningly pretty, it basically feels like hanging out at a really tasteful billionaire’s house. Which, ultimately, is what we all want from a hotel experience.
The luxe-minimalist schtick is upheld through the rooms. Ours, with floors-to-ceiling windows, light-wood floors, abstract canvases and sandblasted concrete walls felt like a cosy art gallery. Somehow the essence of friendliness is maintained, despite the weapons-grade sophistication on display. The bathroom, replete with freestanding tub, long marble surfaces and stone walls and floors, featured bespoke Trunk(Hotel) products as well as a few fancy Tokyo brands too. The whole thing genuinely is an expertly executed combination of Japanese and Scandinavian aesthetics (with precisely none of the naff design flourishes you might expect from similar places).
In terms of nerdy interior design touches I noticed handmade paper cord chairs, beautiful hanging paper lights and a sofa that looks so good you feel a bit guilty for sitting on it.
Anyone coming to Tokyo and wanting to splash out on a memorable, special and - crucially - unique hotel experience won’t do better than a stay at Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park. Staff are - as you’d expect - young, shockingly attractive and exceptionally good at their jobs. Food wise you’ve got street-side trattoria Pizzeria e Trattoria L’Ombelico, as well as the pool-side lounge (only accessible to guests, thank you very much).
Neighbourhood
Tomigaya, which is a small, indie-ish enclave towards Shibuya’s south-west corner, is a joy to explore. Cool clothing boutiques, cutting-edge coffee shops and idiosyncratic shops abound. You can also sack all of that off and wonder around Yoyogi Park itself - one of central Tokyo’s largest green spaces. It’s a lovely place for a wander, and it nowhere near as busy as the more tourist-y spots further into Shibuya. Tomigaya is also pretty close to Shimokitazawa, which is always a good day (or night) out.
Nearby
Meals are Delightful Tableware brand Marumitsu Poterie's shop and café, serving up hearty Japanese home cooking and plates you'll want to take home with you.
Studio Mule A hideaway listening bar with a high-end audio system, owned by the owner of one of Japan’s leading dance music label. Specialises in natural wine.
Shibuya Publishing Booksellers Magazines and books, both new and used, are arranged according to theme here, meaning that you might find a philosophical tract alongside some manga or art books.