Straight off the bat: one of the most striking things about the Four Seasons in Otemachi is its views straight over and into the Imperial Palace. Being able to watch from on high as people come and go through one of Japan’s most enigmatic, exclusive areas is a tremendous privilege and never gets old. As you’d expect, the hotel itself is a successfully executed fusion of international jet-setting luxury and Japanese-accented design choices. As soon as you step out of the elevator into the lobby you’re hit with an intoxicating cocktail of shining dark wood, panelled walls and sky-high ceilings. Huge lamps, like inverted tubs, hang down, bathing everything in a blissed out gentle light. There’s something surreal about the chilled ambience (complemented by trickling water features) being located so high up in a skyscraper. The sense of this place being a self-contained little universe, located far above the financial district’s busy streets, does feel recognisably Japanese.
Once you’ve finished taking (what feels like) illicit bird’s-eye photos of one of planet Earth’s most secretive and exclusive residences, it’s time to see your room. And, what a surprise, it’s elegant in a way that’s thrillingly stylish and respectful of Japanese design. Caramel-coloured carpets, understated designer decor and high-end toiletries abound. It’s harder to imagine a nicer, sleeker pad to come back to after a day tramping up and down Ginza’s buzzy thoroughfares.
It goes without saying that Four Seasons service is slicker than an oiled octopus. Staff are there for you, uncomplainingly at any hour of the day or night, to make your stay seamless and joyful. Those unwilling or unable to venture outside for food and drink won’t go wanting. The Virtu cocktail bar on the 39th floor is an enchanting, low-lit night out for any fan of a stiff drink. Then there are two proper restaurants, Est (fancy, French cuisine, famous wine list) and Pigneto (all-day Italian, takeaway pizza!) both of which offer dining experiences worthy of the Four Seasons name.
It would also be incredibly remiss to not give props to the top-floor infinity pool, which looks out across what is - let’s be honest - the world’s coolest skyline.
Neighbourhood
Otemachi, built on the site of Tokyo’s most ancient neighbourhood, is now synonymous with big business and banking. That’s not to say the district has no appeal to anyone not in Japan to close a deal or secure a merger. The Chiyoda ward might look like a forest of brash skyscrapers, but there’s plenty of fun to be had roaming around the Imperial Palace grounds, or heading down to Ginza (Tokyo’s poshest enclave). And if you don’t like any of that, then Tokyo station - Japan’s busiest train station - is mere minutes from the hotel. It can take you anywhere in the city (or country, to be honest). The area around Kanda station, just north of the hotel, is also a decent bet for fun non-touristy bars and restaurants.
Nearby
Polaris Tokyo isn’t too far from the hotel and is inarguably one of the city’s finest cutting-edge music venues. Never heard of the acts? Doesn’t matter. You’re guaranteed a night to remember.
85 Coredo is a lifestyle shop with a focus on fermented goods. Not interested in fermented goods? This place, housed inside the monumental Coredo department store is still worth a visit in that it sort of exemplifies Japan’s amazing and unique shopping culture.
Yoshinozushi Honten is a restaurant that’s been on its current site since 1879. Unassuming, very casual and extremely reasonably priced (considering the posh neighborhood).
Time Out Tip Anyone even vaguely interested in fitness should make a bit of time to use the gym. A lot of fancy hotels have their exercise facilities tucked away in a lightless basement. Not these guys: the Four Seasons gym looks out across Tokyo’s skyline, with eye-popping floor-to-ceiling windows.