Narukiyo

The ebullient staff are almost as much of a draw as the food at this Shibuya-area izakaya, not far from Aoyama Gakuin University. There's seating at the back, but the counter by the entrance offers the best perch for anyone in search of a raucous evening out. The day's menu comes daubed in Japanese on a scroll of paper, which the staff should be able to help you decipher if you have trouble reading it. Expect a range of seasonal dishes, with an emphasis on fish and vegetables; we've enjoyed juicy, cabbage-stuffed mince croquettes in the spring and light, fluffy ebi-imo croquettes in winter, though it's hard to go wrong with most of the stuff on the menu. Presentation is uniformly good – don't be surprised if you find yourself cooing over the choice of crockery – and a well-chosen soundtrack of retro rock, funk and reggae adds to the appeal.