Kunsei Maruho

You'll catch more than a whiff of smoked food by the time you're halfway down the stairs to this basement izakaya, but persist to the bottom and you'll be rewarded. In typical izakaya fashion, Maruho offers standard fare centred around fish and chicken sashimi, as well as a good range of smoked dishes. Think smoked bacon, quail eggs, cheese and giant octopus, all homemade. We recommend having the 'three types of smoked potato salad', which comes with smoked cod roe, tuna, cheese and mackerel, and goes perfectly with a glass of something strong. For that, look to the drink menu, which has a good 60 varieties of shochu. Shopping walhalla Harajuku just turned into a drinker's destination.