Yayoi Kusama
Photo: Tadasu Yamamoto © Yayoi Kusama 'Pumpkin' (2022)
Photo: Tadasu Yamamoto

Where to see Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkin sculptures in Japan

Naoshima isn’t the only place where you can see the artist’s signature spotted squash

Emma Steen
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In October 2022, Benesse Art Site Naoshima surprised Yayoi Kusama fans by reinstating the artist’s iconic yellow pumpkin sculpture after a year-long absence. The site-specific artwork was badly damaged after being swept up in a heavy typhoon in August 2021 and officials were tight-lipped about whether repairs were underway, or if it was going to be repaired at all. 

In the end, a duplicate sculpture was made to replace the original work, just in time for the re-opening of Japan’s borders and the end of the 2022 Setouchi Triennale. If you’re a Kusama fan, this trademark yellow pumpkin will undoubtedly be at the top of your bucket list, if you haven’t already been to see it. But you should know that there’s more than one spotted pumpkin to look out for when travelling around Japan. Some of them are temporary installations, while others are permanent fixtures, but each one is unique in its own way. Here are the places to find them.

RECOMMENDED: See more sculptures at the best outdoor art museums in Japan

Pumpkin spotting

Towada Art Center, Aomori

The yellow pumpkin opposite the Towada Art Center in Aomori prefecture is actually part of a larger installation titled ‘Love Forever, Singing in Towada’. The installation doubles as a playground, with green rubber flooring covered in yellow polka dots for children to run around on.

Next to the pumpkin are several more colourful pieces by Yayoi Kusama, including sculptures of curious looking creatures and tall mushrooms that look like they’ve come out of a story book. Other installations found in the museum’s outdoor Art Square include the ‘Fat House’ and ‘Fat Car’ by Erwin Wurm, as well as the boulder-like ‘Even Shetia’ by Jaume Plensa.

As for the museum itself, the Towada Art Center is definitely worth a visit as the large-scale artworks here are second to none. These include immersive installations like Leondro Erlich’s playful ‘Building-Buenos Aires’, and Chiharu Shiota’s ‘Memory of Water’, which each promise epic photo ops.

Fukuoka Art Museum

Established in 1979, the Fukuoka Art Museum boasts an impressive collection of both pre-modern and contemporary artworks. Highlights from the museum’s permanent collection range from Buddhist relics dating back to the Heian period (794-1185), to modern art by the likes of Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat and Salvador Dalí.

General admission for the museum is just ¥200, but one of its most talked about artworks – a giant yellow pumpkin sculpture by Yayoi Kusama – is permanently displayed outside the red brick structure and you can view it for free. 

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Oedo Onsen Monogatari Taoya Shima, Mie

You’ll find a little bit of everything at this hot spring resort in Mie, which we think is one of Japan’s most underrated prefectures. On top of an infinity onsen with an ocean view and a open-air foot bath where you soak your feet as you gaze up at a starry night sky, Taoya Shima’s Oedo-Onsen Monogatari also houses a handful of contemporary art installations, including a lesser known Yayoi Kusama sculpture. This pumpkin is sculpted out of metal and firmly grounded on its hillstop, so there's little chance of anything happening to it if the weather goes awry.

Matsumoto City Museum of Art, Nagano

Matsumoto city in Nagano is the birthplace of Yayoi Kusama and this museum won’t let anyone forget it – even the vending machines here are covered in the artist’s trademark polka dots. In the museum’s gardens and courtyard, you’ll not only find a tall yellow pumpkin akin to the one in Naoshima, but also Kusama’s towering sculptures of exotic plants and flowers. 

Inside, there is often at least one exhibition space dedicated to one of the museum’s private collections titled Yayoi Kusama: The Place for My Soul, featuring a range of paintings, drawings and immersive installations. Aside from Yayoi Kusama’s collection, you’ll also find works by other prolific figures from Matsumoto, including a series of calligraphic scrolls by Kamijo Shinzan and sculptures by Munehide Hosokawa. 

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Naoshima, Kagawa

There’s more than one emblematic pumpkin on the art island of Naoshima in Kagawa. A deep shade of red, this second squash is the first thing that visitors see when arriving on the island as it sits by the ferry terminal. Unlike its yellow counterpart, this enormous pumpkin is big enough to stand inside and even has round entryways for people to enter the pumpkin’s hollow interior. It’s a site-specific piece that is rooted to the ground – in other words, there’s no chance of it getting blown away by a heavy storm.

More sights to see

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