Five reasons to visit the National Museum of Western Art (Tokyo)

The NMWA main building, with its stark concrete shell standing imposingly in Ueno Park, is East Asia’s sole structure designed by visionary Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier (1887-1965). Completed in 1959 as a symbol of renewed amiable relations between Japan and France following World War II, recognition as a paragon of Modern architecture led to it being designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016. The entrance to this reinforced-concrete construction sits raised upon pillars; a feature common in Le Corbusier’s creations. One highlight of the interior appears just after entering, where the Nineteenth Century Hall is bathed in soft light via a pyramid-shaped skylight cut into its lofty ceiling.

A sweeping forecourt displays a part of the NMWA’s collection of some 61 works by Frenchman Auguste Rodin (1840-1917), who is considered the originator of modern sculpture. Criss-crossing the forecourt to appreciate each of these powerful bronze works is akin to a high-culture ‘gotta catch ’em all’ game, in which one meets such figures as Bourdelle’s ‘Hercules the Archer’ and, most iconic of all, Rodin’s ‘The Thinker’, forever sitting contemplatively against a lush backdrop of trees and bushes.

This museum’s superlative permanent collection, which forms a comprehensive overview of Western art from the Renaissance through to the early 20th century, began as the enviable personal collection of business magnate Kojiro Matsukata (1866-1950). A close relationship with the European artistic community enabled him to acquire important works by such preeminent artists as Monet, Van Gogh and Renoir. It was Matsukata’s wish that his treasures eventually be shared with the public, something which here comes to fruition with the main building dedicated to pre-18th-century paintings, and a New Wing housing 19th- to early 20th-century paintings and sculptures along with works from the subsequent generation of artists including Picasso, Jackson Pollock and Joan Miró. The collection is still growing, as the museum acquires new work each year.

Each year the NMWA presents about three special exhibitions, with these regularly making a splash on the international art scene. Drawing upon works loaned from other museums and private collections worldwide, as well as from the museum’s own collection, past highlights have included shows devoted to Michelangelo, Rembrandt and Edvard Munch. Until June 14, 2020, the museum is hosting ‘Masterpieces from the National Gallery London’, which features works by Van Gogh, Rembrandt, Monet and many other legendary names.

Café Suiren, the museum eatery, is flooded with light via a sweeping, floor-to-ceiling picture window that looks directly out onto the central courtyard. In this relaxed and airy space, you get to enjoy Western-style dishes inspired by some of the epoch-making artists whose work is featured in the museum, as well as Le Corbusier himself. Water Lily Crab Cream Croquettes are presented on the plate in an elegant manner reminiscent of Monet's ‘Water Lilies’, while the Le Corbusier Lunch Plate Set features spaghetti, hamburg steak and other elements in shapes derived from the architect’s designs. Cake sets are also offered, along with coffee, soft drinks, wine and beer.