Five reasons to visit the National Art Center, Tokyo

NACT breaks the established art museum mould, dispensing with the idea of a permanent collection. Instead the museum conceives, then presents an eclectic program of special themed exhibitions, which are consistently compelling. Here the definition of art is an open-mindedly broad one. Past shows have comprehensively covered everything from US pop artists to the work of trailblazing fashion designer Issey Miyake, and from 20th-century Californian design to Japan’s anime and manga subcultures. Until June 1, 2020, an exhibition titled ‘Timeless Conversations 2020: Voices from Japanese Art of the Past and Present’ unites pieces by the masters of classical Japanese art, including Hokusai, with boundary-pushing works from currently active Japanese creators.

The vast NACT building was conceived by architect Kisho Kurokawa (1934-2007), who after co-founding Japan’s Metabolist movement went on to design a string of major art museums: NACT, the last completed in the architect’s lifetime, is arguably his crowning glory. Taking the concept of ‘an art centre surrounded by green spaces’, some 14,000 square metres of exhibition space is fronted by a wave-like glass facade, its seemingly undulating surface neatly set off by a pointedly conical entrance. Inside, the cavernous lobby is equally audacious: here the experience varies according to the seasonal light flooding in, and is especially breathtaking when taken in from the elevated walkways that lead to the exhibition spaces.

Down in the NACT’s basement – and in the lobby – awaits this elevated take on a museum souvenir shop. The expected art-related postcards, books and various original products are joined by an array of items that embody the very best in Japanese design. Leather wallets by Comme des Garçons share shop space with multifarious, beautifully packaged fragrances. Other names to look out for here include Tokyo fashion label Anrealage and Tembea for simple yet highly functional bags, alongside more traditional items including ceramics, textiles and paper fans.

Don’t miss the opportunity to also experience ‘Glass Tea House - KOU-AN’, a celebrated work by artist Tokujin Yoshioka that is enjoying a two-year stint (until May 10 2021) installed in the open air directly outside the museum. This work, which made waves when debuted at the Venice Biennale in 2011, is Yoshioka’s take on the Japanese tea house. Though the installation touches upon the very roots of Japanese tradition and its affinity with nature, the usual hanging scrolls and ikebana flower arrangements are absent. Instead the artist conveys the essence of his culture through glass architecture that simultaneously delights and confounds the eye, with a prism creating ‘flowers made of light’, and the impression of a glistening water surface formed from natural light. This singular ‘tea house’ is joined by Yoshioka’s ‘Water Block’ glass benches.

Three museum cafés, offering a range of light bites, soft drinks and wines, boast design in keeping with NACT’s architectural magnificence. Moving upwards through the building, the basement is home to Cafétéria Carré, a casual, open space where the self-service treats range from popcorn to pasta dishes. On the first floor, find Café Coquille set against a rippled, shell-like glass wall that is the pleasing inside counterpart to NACT’s wave-like facade. Its spacious, high-ceiling atrium is joined by a light-bathed open terrace. Salon de Thé Rond, on the second floor, is a tea salon sitting atop one of two huge inverted cones. Have a slightly larger appetite? Head up to the third floor to Brasserie Paul Bocuse Le Musée, perched on the second inverted cone. This restaurant offers authentic French cuisine made with the highest quality ingredients, at reasonable prices.