Many Houstonians argue that the choice of getting to New Orleans is clear (plane, of course), but after taking the mode less traveled, I'd say that the more time spent getting to New Orleans, the better.
The speed at which we reach our destination doesn’t always need to be a significant factor in deciding how to get where we’re going. Even when upgraded, flying can be more of a chore than a delight, especially on routes too short to get the good stuff that makes a premium cabin worthwhile. Not to mention, the ever-more needed time spent before boarding to make it through security should a system shutdown happen, baggage claim backups or any other airport lunacy pop-up. While trains can be subject to the same delays, they allow you to feel like a prioritized passenger without being punished before boarding, which is why I embarked on a seven-hour train ride with Sunset Limited, wishing it took longer.
My Sunset Limited train experience
While the Houston station is far from impressive, the entire process—from getting dropped off to boarding the train—requires little time to be spent in the station anyway. Amtrak advises arriving no more than (not less) than thirty minutes before departure, as passengers typically board 30 minutes prior if the train is at the station. Since I didn’t have to check any bags, I went straight from my Uber to the train car. Checking bags might be the only reason to get to the station with time to spare since it takes a minute to do and had a small line when I got there.
On board, I was directed to my roomette by my designated attendant. Initially, I booked a regular one-way ticket for $57, but Amtrak allows upgrades via a bid system—the same system airlines use. By bidding the bare minimum of $261, I was able to secure my roomette for less than if I had paid $425 upfront. Sure, $261 plus the coach ticket might match the cost of a one-way first-class plane ticket, but the experience blows the airliners out of the water. The privacy of a roomette is all too decadent, as it’s completely enclosed off the main hallway, and hardly any noise from other passengers seeps through when the doors are closed. Down the hall, there are several bathrooms and even a shower that you can access, with towels and toiletries provided in your roomette.
In the roomette, two plush and plus-sized chairs face each other along the enlarged window, with a fold-out table in the middle and various cubbies and steps to the fold-out bunk bed above. There’s plenty of space to store a typical suitcase and backpack; if traveling alone, you can stretch out and rest your feet on the other chair without shifting it into bed mode. There is something about being able to spread out, unpack a little and lounge with complete privacy that feels so unfamiliar, even compared to the semi-private seats in the transatlantic business class. You’re only reminded you’re not alone when your attendant checks in and asks about your meal plans.
What food is served in Amtrak’s roomette?
Meals are included in any upgraded ticket from coach, and with my roomette ticket, I got lunch and dinner on my way to New Orleans, since it’s considered a ‘traditional dining’ route. If you’re taking this route before Houston, both meals, as well as breakfast, are all made fresh.That means cooked-to-order burgers and steaks, which I happily indulged in from my seat. More social diners can reserve a table in the dining car for every meal with their attendant, but I opted to have mine brought to me, and it was exactly what I hoped for.
The burger for lunch tasted comparable to what your buddy can grill by the pool, and while I prefer fries, the kettle chips were a worthy side. Dinner is a three-course meal with your choice for each course, and I went for a makeshift surf and turf with pearl tempura shrimp for my starter and the signature flat iron steak for dinner. The huge cut of meat is cooked to perfection, and the port wine sauce could be sold as a souvenir. I opted for the classic chocolate spoon cake for dessert, and it was the perfect finish to easily one of the best meals I’ve had while transiting. It wasn’t flashy or modern, but it was leagues above what I’ve had when flying, both in economy and business, and knowing it was made to my liking made it feel even more luxurious.
Entertainment-wise, Wi-Fi is still far behind what you get in the air. You have to prep ahead of time with your choices of downloadable entertainment and be okay with the choices made, as you’ll rarely see service the whole way through. Initially, this felt like a drawback, but as I leaned into the idea that I'd be disconnected for the next several hours, I found a new fondness for being off the grid. I sank into my seat as my Spotify downloads serenaded the scenery while we rode past. Something about this made the time go by, and it felt a bit bittersweet when we reached New Orleans, and I’d be back online. The evolving landscape from Houston to New Orleans isn’t as fantastic as I’d imagine going from California to Colorado is. Still, something about the growing presence of bald cypress trees, Spanish moss and endless swampy waters visually translated my transition in a way I’d never notice when I drove or flew. I felt the world around me change in real-time, and by the time we got to New Orleans, I had seen so much more before the trip started.
My final thoughts
It took roughly nine and a half hours, which is faster than typical times spent on this route. However, the comfort of my roomette, the food and the scenery left me wishing for a delay or two to add more time to the experience. There was no struggle to fit into a tight seat; the food rivaled home-cooked meals and it made the transit day something worth remembering. It completely changed how I plan my trips, and as an avid flyer, I’ll be looking to see past preferring planes to trains.