Outdoorsy type? Kids in tow? Here for the wildlife? No matter what getaway you're looking for, this town has you covered
From its sprawling pubs to its bustling beachside caravan park, its colourful breakwall to its fleet of barbeque boats, Port Macquarie is an Aussie holiday town as charmingly true blue as they come.
The 17 (17!) beaches that line the coastline are the town’s calling card – stretching out from the town centre towards the lighthouse that stands with Wes Anderson-style elegance on a headland to the south. Pelicans stalk the jetties, pensioners gather on the bowling green across from the river, and children splash in the playgrounds; holiday mode perpetually on.
On weekend mornings, the cafes fill with friends sharing acai bowls, and the sandy stretches closest to town play host to volleyball comps and paddle races. At night time, the streets fill with families finishing dinner with an ice cream, with the walk home illuminated by fairy light-strewn palm trees.
The traditional home of the Birpai people, the British settled the town as a penal colony in 1821, and it has gone on to become a busy beach town and a favourite holiday destination – known by those in the know as simply Port.
Once a veritable mecca of theme parks (at least six used to operate within the town), Port is home to holiday activities to suit all age groups and interests. Hop in a car, and you'll find bike rides, animal encounters and waterfalls all within an easy hour of the town centre.
Not surprisingly for a NSW holiday destination, Port’s foodie offering is excellent, with fine diners, coffee snobs and unpretentious, from-the-paper fish and chip fiends all catered for.
Time Out Sydney's lifestyle writer Winnie Stubbs visited the town and chatted with the locals about the best places to eat, drink, stay and play.
Recent upgrades to the highway now make Port Macquarie an easy four-hour drive from Sydney’s northern suburbs.
QantasLink and Virgin Australia fly daily between Sydney and Port Macquarie with a flight time of just one hour.
There’s also the option to get there by rail from Sydney via NSW Trainlink. It arrives at Wauchope station, 20 minutes inland from Port Macquarie, with a coach connection to Port Macquarie.
Animal encounters
Port Macquarie offers one of the best vantage points to see whales during the yearly migration season that typically runs from May to November. Get up close for an awe-inspiring vantage point of their signature somersault moves with Port Jet, or watch from afar from one of the lookouts dotted along the coast path.
Port is also home to the world’s first Koala Hospital and now the world’s first wild koala breeding program, to help bring back the koala numbers after the devastating bushfires. See the koalas climbing trees in their rehabilitation yards, and learn how the hospital conserves koalas and what you can do to help if you see one injured. Entry and tours of the hospital are free.
At the multiple-award-winning Billabong Zoo, get up close with more than 80 species of Australian mammals, reptiles and birds. They run zoo talks and personal encounters with animals such as snow leopards and cheetahs.
Take to the sands on a camel safari on the beautiful Lighthouse Beach where – if you time your ride right – you might even catch the sight of dolphins or whales while in the saddle.
Horse rides for all ages and abilities are available at Port Macquarie Horseriding Centre and afterwards, best enjoyed followed with cheese platters and wine at the nearby Cassegrain Winery (brought to you by 2021 Winemaker of the Year, Alex Cassegrain).
Coastal and nature adventures
If you do one thing in Port, make it this: lace up your walking shoes and take in a stretch of the spectacular Coastal Walk which hugs the coastline. The nine kilometre walk can be split up into sections or – if you’ve got four or so hours to spare – completed in one.
If you’re up for another walk, trek from beach to rainforest by taking the Port Macquarie Coastal Walk into the Sea Acres Rainforest Centre, where you can enjoy a well-earned (well-executed) brunch among the lush green surroundings of the Rainforest Café.
At Bago Winery and Maze, you have a trio of attractions to enjoy. Firstly, at Baba Lila, a chocolate shop and kitchen, chocolate lovers can indulge in a chocolate art workshop, making artworks out of a delicious melted Russian recipe chocolate to keep and eat. Then, stepping into the Bago Winery, you can enjoy a cheese board and wine tasting on the outdoor patio, while marvelling at one of the world’s largest hedge mazes – the stunning, architecturally-designed, award-winning native Lilly Pilly hedge.
The Hello Koalas Sculpture Trail, free and fun for all ages, is a multi-award winning art project, formed from 83 hand-painted koalas located across the Port Macquarie-Hastings region. Grab a map from the Hello Koala Gift Shop, so you can hunt for one or twenty – however many will fill your koala-quota.
For a venture out of the main town centre, step back in time at the sleepy provincial village of Comboyne, hire a bike and cycle along the Queenslake Walking Trail, or go waterfall chasing at Boorganna Nature Reserve (the second-oldest nature reserve in NSW, home to Rawson Waterfalls).
Waterfront dining
Despite its portfolio of 17 beaches, only a few of Port’s best eateries are actually on the water – with many waterfront options being riverside rather than beachside spots.
Little Shack is a notable exception – a sprawling indoor-outdoor venue serving burgers, tacos and excellent Pina Coladas at the north end of the boardwalk, with uninterrupted water views of river melting into the ocean.
Hello Sailor is another excellent waterside option – with a deck jutting out into the harbour, a lively live-music program and a perfectly balanced menu of creative cocktails and seafood-heavy drinking snacks. Looking for a spot for a good Margarita and a bowl of calamari served with a smile? This is your fighter.
Another harbourside dining option is The Boathouse: located within the walls of Sails Hotel, arguably the town’s most luxurious place to lay your head. The light-filled space on the first floor of the hotel opens up onto views of the marina, and serves a reliable menu of holiday favourites. Here, a plate of scallops and a spritz is the order of the day.
Cafés
If you’re happy to brunch without being by the beach, head to Drury Lane Eatery Café for a simple but perfectly formed menu spotlighting local ingredients. Everything is made in house from scratch, including the house sourdough, cakes and baked treats.
A few streets back from the beach, you’ll find Studio 3 Espresso serving the town’s best flat white and a magnificently loaded avo toast. Across the street, Frankie’s café is a breezy, beautifully minimalist space offering a perfect contemporary Australian all day breakfast menu, healthy lunch options and spectacular loaded milkshakes.
If acai by the ocean is your perfect holiday breakfast, head to Salty Crew kiosk at town beach – you won’t be alone.
Seafood
Port Macquarie’s historic seafood restaurant Whalebone Wharf has been a stalwart of the town’s dining scene for over 40 years. It’s fresh seafood with water views – a seaside holiday starter pack.
Closer to the centre of town, Bills Fishhouse and Bar is a favourite for a reason – spotlighting locally sourced seafood through a creative menu of masterfully executed dishes. Come for the food, stay for the atmosphere; the team here are exceptional.
For a laid-back but always excellent family-friendly dinner, head to Chop and Chill – set the kids loose in the play area and settle in for a bowl of seafood chowder.
After dinner drinks
For the best cocktails in town, you’ll want to aim for Stick Bar. Tucked in a laneway in the centre of town, this contemporary bar serves craft cocktails an Japanese-inspired tapas cooked over charcoal.
For something more lowkey, head to one of the town’s sprawling pubs – The Beach House (formerly the Royal Hotel) has been plying the town with schooners and good times for over a century.
Dessert
If you begin to see a higher density of people holding ice cream cones, you’re likely getting close to Blue Cow Gelato. Here the ice cream comes in a gloriously extensive range of flavours, and the treats don’t end there: branch out with a cookie sandwich or a Caramello koala bubble waffle, and take your sweet treat down to the beach for the perfect end to a holiday day.
Sails Port Macquarie by Rydges
For a luxury stay, Sails Port Macquarie is the one; a 4.5-star waterfront hotel with 92 stunning guestrooms, tennis courts, a pool and spa overlooking the marina and a private jetty complete with free-to-use kayaks. There’s also an expansive restaurant serving up a perfectly holiday-inspired menu (including delightfully jumbo-sized cocktails).
The Mid Pacific hotel
This is a much-loved hotel with coastal vibes, right by the beach. A favourite feature is the hot tub with views of the sandy shores.
The Nature Domes
The Nature Domes are a relatively recent addition to Port’s holiday offering – off-grid domes in a secluded valley, with open-air hot tubs, onsite animals and views across the hinterland.
For a caravan holiday experience, Diamond Waters Caravan Park is a peaceful, leafy park on the shores of the beautiful Camden Haven River. They have ensuite cabins, or powered and non-powered sites available. It is nestled on eight acres of natural bushland with river access via their on-site boat ramp. Sit back and relax whilst you enjoy the local wildlife and tranquil river views. The caravan park is also a short walk to a beach.
Stay by a beach further out of town, one with the allure of a distant tropical paradise at Flynns Beach Resort, right next to the pristine sands of the Port’s famed Flynn’s Beach. It offers spacious and modern, two-bedroom fully self-contained apartments, sleeping up to four persons. All the apartments are self-catering. The resort is surrounded by beautifully maintained gardens and a nature corridor, with a natural creek running through the centre. It also features barbecue areas, two heated swimming pools and a gym.
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