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[title]Mention spring in Japan to anyone, and what comes to mind will usually be clouds of cherry blossoms. But where does snow come into the picture?
As it turns out, you can have your cake and eat it too. The Tohoku region of Japan is the perfect once-in-a-lifetime holiday destination if you want to experience snow and Sakura (cherry blossoms) on the same trip. It’s far north enough that there’s still snow on the mountains, but temperate enough on the lowlands for the Sakura to bloom. Why not ride that bullet train north and check out the delights that Tohoku has to offer?
Iwate Geto Kogen Ski Resort | Photograph: Supplied/JNTO
A taste of spring in Iwate
Located on the eastern coast of the Tohoku region facing the Pacific Ocean, Iwate Prefecture has some of the most rugged and scenic landscapes in all of Japan. One of its best kept spring secrets, however, is Kitakami Tenshochi Park. Stretching for two kilometres along the banks of the Kitakami River are a jaw-dropping 10,000 cherry blossom trees, which form a long and magnificent white-and-pink tunnel when the flowers are at their peak in mid to late April. The cherry on top (pun fully intended) is that the river banks themselves are lined with gorgeous yellow daffodils. It’s little wonder that this park ranks among the three best cherry blossom-viewing spots in the region!
As a bonus, opposite the park is the Michinoku Folklore Village, a prettily laid-out open-air museum spread out across seven hectares on a mountain. Wonderful for history buffs and casual visitors alike, it showcases around 30 preserved thatched-roof farmhouses, homesteads and other buildings from the Kitakami River basin area, representing a variety of historical periods in Japan. There are also occasional folk music and dance performances on the museum grounds. Don’t forget to say hello to the goats in the farmhouses!
Cap your visit with some treats from the food vendors clustered between the park and the village – grilled buttered scallops or savoury pork skewers make a great accompaniment to cherry blossom viewing.
Most visitors will want to skip staying in Kitakami and instead drive over to Geto Kogen Resort. In January and February, this ski resort is one of the region’s finest places for powder snow and a real favourite with winter sports fanatics, clocking serious snow depths during peak winter season. Spring snow at Geto Onsen is what you would expect for the season – warm and a little sticky – but still reasonably fun if you are an intermediate-level skier. (Note: The slopes here are not exactly beginner-friendly.)
But the main reason to hit up Geto Kogen Resort after the cherry blossoms in Kitakami? The gorgeous rooms at Geto Premier Stay Gou, which is by far some of the best accommodation in the wider Kitakami area. Not only do the hot spring baths overlook the mountains, their large Western-style rooms and super-comfortable beds are perfect for families, groups of friends, or even honeymooning couples looking for a cold mountain getaway. Also, complimentary bottles of wine, and salami and cheese in the fridge? Don’t mind if we do.
Hirosaki Castle Cherry Blossom Blizzard | Photograph: Supplied/JNTO
Snowshoeing, shamisen, and Sakura in Aomori
Hopping on a bullet train further north takes you to Aomori, the northernmost prefecture on the main island, Honshu. Once better known for its apples and as a stopover en route to Hokkaido, Aomori is full of underrated travel gems and rich cultural traditions.
(For more, read our guide to Aomori prefecture.)
Another one of the three top spots for the Tohoku region’s cherry blossom displays in spring is Hirosaki Park, built on the former grounds of Hirosaki Castle. If you’ll forgive us for getting a little geeky here, the trees in Hirosaki Park are pruned using a special technique similar to those used for trimming apple trees in the region. In apple trees, this technique increases fruit yield; but in cherry blossom trees, the branches not only grow in a graceful downward arc, each branch is covered with a higher-than-average concentration of flowers.
After you’ve had your fill of cherry blossoms, a jaunt to the northeast side of the park takes you to Tsugaru-han Neputa Village. Inside the main building is a mini-museum showcasing festival floats used in the annual summer Neputa festivals, and if you time your visit right, you’ll even get to watch some fantastic shamisen performances. Unlike traditional shamisen performances in Kyoto, local Tsugaru-style shamisen is electrifyingly energetic – think Brian May or Eddie Van Halen shredding, but on a three-stringed instrument.
This tourist complex is also the perfect place to pack some local Aomori souvenirs into your suitcase – we love the colourful yet elegant Tsugaru lacquerware, hand-carved wooden toys, mini paper lanterns, and all the apple-flavoured goodies. If you’re into fish (which we are), you’ll also want to bring some Marunushi 38 Can Bar canned mackerel home from the main gift shop. Made with locally fished mackerel from nearby Hachinohe City,they come in a variety of flavours like salt, tare (a sweet-savoury soy sauce), yuzu kosho (a spicy, citrusy chilli paste) and habanero pepper.
Mount Hakkoda | Photograph: Supplied/JNTO
Follow your cherry blossom sojourn with a trip up to Hakkoda Ski Resort for some frolicking in the snow. Even in spring, the Hakkoda mountain range has something for everyone. Beginners can try out 1-on-1 lessons with friendly, experienced instructors on the regular slopes. Ski conditions on the regular slopes may not be entirely optimal for advanced skiers, but the backcountry skiing is still pretty fabulous in spring – plus, it’s a rare opportunity to ski with a view of the ocean in the distance (that’s the Bay of Aomori to you). Even better, those who aren’t keen on skiing can rent snowshoes and go on a little trek in the beech forest up high. Who knows – you might run into a winter fox!
If you fancy a more traditional Japanese-style stay, the 300-year-old Sukayu Onsen is popular with skiers and snowboarders during the winter season. While the overwhelming majority of hot spring baths in the country are gender-segregated, ‘Sennin Buro’ at Sukayu Onsen is one of the remaining few places in Japan you can experience a mixed-gender bath. Of course, there are gender-segregated baths in addition to the co-ed spaces, and even the co-ed space sets aside specific hours during the day for women-only bath times.
Alternatively, cap your day on the slopes at Hotel Jogakura, a rustic and comfortable European-style ski chalet located a short drive away from the ski resort. There’s a drying room for your ski boots and other equipment, but most importantly, it has some very nice outdoor baths overlooking the snowy Hakkoda mountains. The multi-course Japanese-style dinner hits the spot after a long day out, and the delicious apple pie doesn’t hurt, either.