aerial photo of Pebbly Beach
Photograph: Supplied | Visit Shoalhaven
Photograph: Supplied | Visit Shoalhaven

Your ultimate guide to Shoalhaven

This is your sign to turn south onto the A1, and keep driving until you hit the sapphire seas of Shoalhaven

Winnie Stubbs
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There’s a certain bucolic scene that sparks a primal sense of calm: an evolutionary sedative to the cells. When we’re presented with a scene that features high ground, water, trees and grazing animals, we automatically feel calmer: safe in the knowledge that all of our basic needs (for shelter, food and water) can be met. It’s that scene that presents itself at almost every corner in the Shoalhaven region. And here, our other, more indulgent baseline needs (for a good flat white, loaf of sourdough and Negroni) can be met too. It’s the kind of place where time slows down along with your heart rate. Where you step back in time to a world where everyone takes the time to learn your name – but where the joys of modern life are never too difficult to come by. It’s a place you’ll want to return to again and again.

The traditional land of the Bhwerawerri, Budawang, Jerrinja, Murramarang, Tomikin, Wandi wandandian, Wodi wodi, Yuin and associated clans, this stretch of rolling hills and stunning coastline a few hours south of Sydney has been somewhat of a hidden holiday gem for decades: the site of repeat visits for those lucky enough to discover it, but overlooked by many in favour of the state’s more well-known beach towns (Byron Bay, we’re looking at you). Now though, it’s undeniably on the up – with roadside motels morphing into high-end stays, and low-key pubs becoming award-winning restaurants. But despite the region's ballooning offering, it still feels utterly, divinely unspoiled. 

We’ve put together a guide to the best places to stay, eat, drink and play in this heavenly region – because personally, we can’t wait to go back.

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Your ultimate guide to Shoalhaven

Getting there

Take the Princes Highway out of Sydney and you’ll arrive in Milton – arguably the historic heart of the region – in just over three hours. You’ll want to make a couple of stops on the way; either for a pie from Hayden’s Pies in Ulladulla, or for some calamari by the ocean from Huskisson’s World Famous Fish N Chips. Otherwise, take an hour or so to explore the idyllic, provincial town of Berry; home to what is arguably the cutest lolly shop in NSW (The Treat Factory), and some reliably excellent purveyors of baked goods; from an artisan sourdough cafe to a retro donut van.

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Winnie Stubbs
Lifestyle Writer
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