There’s a magic that's found on the banks of Sydney Harbour, alive within the sprawling expanse of saltwater that winds its way through the city. I’ve felt it when I’ve flown in after weeks away and looked down onto the maze-like waterways that push deep blue into the corners of the green-grey city, and on warm summer evenings, diving into the cool at Camp Cove and washing away the day as the sun sets behind the city skyline.
Most recently, I felt it from my balcony at the Park Hyatt, looking out across Circular Quay as the last lights of the skyscrapers blinked out and a shy smattering of stars punctuated the sky. Across the water, the Opera House stood in its bold, unparalleled beauty – pearly white against the deep navy night – and apart from our words, the only sound was the gentle thrum of the harbour lapping at the city’s walls. Two floors below, in a warmly-lit dining room looking out across the boardwalk, the restaurant team who’d served us dinner cleared away the evening, and in that moment it felt as though the view of Sydney Harbour was solely ours. There are a lot of incredible places to stay in the Harbour City, but if you want to feel as though you’ve spent a night within its beating heart, stay here.
I arrived just before sunset, walking through the city and right to the water's edge, where the Park Hyatt sits with quiet, dignified elegance beneath the shadow of the Harbour Bridge. Then, the view that stretched out through the floor-ceiling windows was alive with movement – ferries pushing across the water and groups of tourists gathering for selfies on the steps of the Opera House. Jørn Utzon designed Sydney’s most iconic building to mimic the awe-inspiring scale of a Mayan temple, and in my opinion, its presence turns any view into something spectacular – reminding you that life doesn’t need to be serious. From the Park Hyatt, it’s a challenge to look out of the window and not see the Opera House cutting its playful silhouette into the sky – an ever-present statement of Sydney’s unpretentious magnificence.
By the time my friend arrived, the sun had set but the winter air was still strangely warm. We sat out on the balcony and made vodka sodas from a welcome tray that had been waiting for us – loaded with local drinks and perfectly salty drinking snacks. After dinner – four delicately-presented courses, starting with crisp Jerusalem artichoke with a truffle-honey custard and ending with a tarte tatin that was buttery and sweet and spiked with cinnamon – we changed into our swimmers and made our way onto the rooftop for a swim beneath the stars. The pool was closed, and if the Park Hyatt were to lose any points, it would be for the rooftop aquatic-zone’s (admittedly sensible) opening hours.
The room itself is vast but intimate, with every element thoughtfully curated – from the bespoke Le Labo amenities to the glittering glass cabinet and well-stocked minibar, stocked with locally-made spirits. Denied our post-dinner dip, we settled for a seat on the balcony, wrapped in robes and tipsy from fig Martinis and Sydney’s Thursday evening buzz.
Glass doors wide open, I woke naturally with the morning air, the Opera House underlit by the honey-gold glow of sunrise. By this time, the rooftop was welcoming guests – towels placed carefully on each of the sunbeds that line the pool and the harbour-facing spa. Once you’re up here – bathed in Sydney sunshine – it’s difficult to leave, and it’s difficult to imagine a more spectacular place for your morning swim.
As hard as it was to pull myself away from the sun-soaked rooftop, I’d heard rumours of The Dining Room’s crab omelette, so I made my way downstairs for breakfast. Unsurprisingly, the Park Hyatt team manages to execute a breakfast buffet without even an ounce of chaos. Gleaming pastries, seasonal fruit, glass pots of yoghurt and loaves of fresh bread wait at a beautifully-curated table, and Sydney’s harbour sets a sparkling backdrop. The coffee is excellent, and before my omelette, a plate of good smoked salmon with creme fraiche and a bowl of fresh berries arrive at my table – the perfect four-course breakfast.
Since first opening its doors in 1990, the 155-room residence has been setting the standard for luxury in the Harbour City. It’s played host to everyone from Elton John to Bette Midler, and while Sydney’s cityscape morphs and grows, this corner of the harbour remains untouched – and quietly spectacular.
As I left, Bruce – the chief door person who’d welcomed me when I’d visited the spa here a few weeks prior – fetched my bags and asked where I was heading for the day. Bruce has worked at the Park Hyatt for 31 years, and he doesn’t ever seem to tire of welcoming guests into the hotel’s light-flooded lobby.
“Welcoming back our regular guests and meeting new ones every day keeps me going. It's a wonderful feeling to greet people from different cultures and share the beauty of Sydney with them,” Bruce tells me, and I think that says everything.
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