The dining room at Armorica Grande Brasserie
Photograph: Supplied/Armorica Grande Brasserie
Photograph: Supplied/Armorica Grande Brasserie

Time Out Food & Drink Awards 2023: Best Fine Dining Restaurant

Here is the winner for Best Fine Dining Restaurant in the Time Out Sydney Food & Drink Awards 2023

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You would think Sydneysiders' appetites for fine-dining restaurants would have all but disappeared this year, what with the constant hikes on interest rates and every other thing we have to pay for. But if 2023’s openings are anything to go by, when it comes to exceptional and yes, exy dining experiences, us Sydneysiders can’t eat them up fast enough.

From opulent French brasseries to X-factor Mediterranean grills and NYC-style steakhouses, restaurant openings on the finer ends of the scale have dominated this year. And heck, we’re here for it (even if we’re broke).

Sydney’s fine dining landscape is not what it used to be (we reckon it’s changed for the better) and our nominees are anything but stuffy and pretentious. Sure, some of them still have white tablecloths and bow-tied waiters, and we believe there’s absolutely a time and a place for them. And all of them have a brilliant food and drink offering, as well as experienced, intuitive waitstaff, and charming atmospheres.

Though, what we’re really talking about here are restaurants that fit under the ‘special occasion’ category. Those kinds of restaurants you have saved on your phone for your next event, and ones you may need to save for. The ones you visit for life’s joyful moments, whether that’s a birthday, anniversary or promotion – or, when you feel like throwing caution to the wind, going all out and ordering a second bottle of wine (we love those nights).

If life is about spending time with your loved ones, and creating shared experiences, these restaurants below are the ones we want to be at.

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And the winner is...

  • French
  • Surry Hills

The capacious Crown Street site formerly known as Toko is now the home of Andrew Becher’s latest grand venture, Armorica. No stranger to dropping a casual few mill on a resplendent refit, this grandiose renewal is as tastefully opulent as one has come to expect from the self-confessed Francophile behind Potts Point’s fine-dining duo Franca and Parlar.

Once liberated from your coat, deftly hung in the foyer’s bespoke, European oak closet by your impossibly elegant host, you’ll be whisked through the magnificent dining room to your seats. Italian marble, tufted cherry leather, naval brass railings and gilded lamps atop each table – it’s entirely evident that not a single expense has been spared.

This lavish commitment to only the finest of things extends beyond the floor to the sweeping, open kitchen – the back wall of which is lined with exquisite scarlet tiles imported from Spain. At its heart is the custom-built, five-metre-long Josper grill (legendary in the world of charcoal gastronomy for bringing the age-old art of fire pit cooking to the world's contemporary kitchens).

It is here that executive chef Jose Saulog brings Armorica’s extensive menu spectacularly to life, as gleaming towers heaving with oysters, coral trout crudo, rock lobster and prawn cocktails are effortlessly plucked from the pass.

We also love these other nominees...

  • French
  • Sydney

Have you ever wondered what it feels like to truly sit in the lap of luxury? You’ll know after a three-hour lunch at Brasserie 1930, the elegant hotel restaurant on the ground floor of the new Capella Hotel on Bridge Street.

They’ve taken a fully immersive approach here, gathering everything decorative, shiny and delightful and scattering it artfully across the former Department of Education building. There are towering verdant green walls in the atrium; lampshades that open and close gently overhead like jellyfish in a tropical aquarium; and textural art – ceramics, wire sculpture, textile art – around every corner. The lobby alone is its own gallery tour for visitors staying in the tastefully appointed rooms above. Of course, if you want to level-up a staycation, eschew the flights and bankroll a $690 a night deluxe room here instead and you can pretend you’re the heir to a media empire for 48 hours.

  • American
  • Sydney

Disclaimer: Good-times-only Italian diner Pellegrino 2000 is one of our favourite restaurants in Sydney. Chefs and owners Dan Pepperell and Mikey Clift, alongside sommelier Andy Tyson, know how to create a rocking venue with on-point flavours and a feel-good vibe (the fact that it’s impossible to get a booking unless it's a Tuesday at 5pm is testament to that). So, when news broke earlier this year that the trio were opening a third Sydney restaurant – a New York-style steak house slinging retro classics – joining Pellegrino 2000 and their French baby, Bistrot 916 – we were thrilled, hopeful, and perhaps a little biased. Thankfully, it’s turned out to be a clam dunk.

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  • Mediterranean
  • The Rocks

To quote a song from the OG Kylie, it was love at first sight with Le Foote. And thank god, because expectations were at an all time high for this part Parisian wine bar, part Mediterranean grill. Word on the street is that it's Sydney’s hottest opening this year.

After all, Le Foote is a Swillhouse venue – they're the team behind some of Sydney’s most on-point venues including red-hued old-world bistro Hubert, and good-times-only Italian joint Alberto's Lounge. It’s been a heck of a long time coming, with more than two years of planning and setbacks. Which makes sense, when you consider that Le Foote has taken over the historic Phillip’s Foote restaurant in the Rocks. All that sandstone, while gorgeous, ain’t forgiving. At last, the red curtains opened. And what a show.

  • Seafood
  • St Leonards

There’s a golden egg that features in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. In the film, the magical object is used in the Triwizard Tournament, and Potter desperately wants to open it and discover what’s inside. We don’t want to give away any spoilers (though if you haven’t seen it yet, let’s face it, you probably won’t), but what he discovers changes the game. The scotch egg at Petermen – Josh and Julie Niland’s latest restaurant, on the North Shore – is not quite as shiny, but it's just as game-changing.

Whether it’s Saint Peter’s fish-eye ice cream (trust us, it works), the legendary yellowfin tuna cheeseburger at Charcoal Fish that rivals Macca's creations, and now Petermen’s exceptional scotch egg, Niland has revolutionised the way we think about – and eat – seafood, allowing us to fall deeper in love with creatures of the sea. And there is nothing fishy about that.

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  • Australian
  • Sydney

It’s been a while between shots, and we don’t know if we’ve ever had one right before a meal, but that’s exactly what happens not long after we take a seat at the Sanderson, the new CBD restaurant by the Speakeasy Group (also Nick and Nora’s and Mjølner). On the table we see two miniature silver rams with curled horns. Our waiter flips them around, and pours us a nip of something neon-green. We’re told it’s made in-house, from sherry, green apple, cucumber, and white balsamic. Sounds a lot better than the Midori of our youth, so down it goes. Like a bright, zippy treat, actually. A sign of the fun to come.

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