Time Out Food & Drink Awards 2023: Best Cocktail Bar

In the basement of a heritage warehouse in Sydney’s CBD you’ll find a Sicilian-inspired cocktail bar named for the ill-fated wife of Michael Corleone in Francis Ford Coppola's 1972 mobster masterpiece, The Godfather. But don’t let that put you off. For those of us who have been lying about having seen The Godfather their whole lives, good news. Every page of the drinks menu will run you through the storyline (spoilers lie within, but it’s literally been 50 years) so you can impress your date with cinematic knowledge while sipping on a Letter Never Sent, a standout concoction of wheat vodka, honey liquor, pineapple, clove, housemade almond syrup and fresh nutmeg, shaken and served over ice.

Dimly lit and dramatic as the movie itself, Apollonia is, by sheer geography alone, a triumph. Carved into the sandstone bedrock of Customs House, the hand-chipped, 150-year-old walls have been ambitiously transported to the 21st century, with accents of marble bars, deeply stained wooden finishes, mismatched tiles and red leather banquette seating.

A cocktail that makes you cough doesn’t sound like a good time, but hear us out. When the Eau de Vie bartender brings over our Smokey Rob Roy, he pours a mix of Talisker and Highland whiskies, Diplomatico Mantuano rum, sweet vermouth and orange bitters from a beaker into a glass over a cloud of wood smoke. The smoke dances in and above the glass for for at least a minute. It’s mesmerising. When the haze has subsided, we lift the glass to our lips, but we’ve jumped the gun and our mouth fills with a tasty yet cough-provoking vapour. It also provokes a giggle. We'll wait.

When we do taste this drink – owner Sven Almenning’s signature cocktail – we find it’s exactly as the menu describes: “bold and fierce”. Not for the Piña Colada lovers among us. You get the rich, smoky notes of the whisky playing with the burnt flavours of the actual smoke; the caramel undertones of the rum lending velvety sweetness; herbal elegance from the vermouth, and citrusy brightness from the orange bitters. It’s like a cosy night spent in front of a fireplace, cleverly condensed into a glass. 

There are plenty of bars with views out over Sydney – but there are few that offer up almost 360-degree vistas, where you can lap up the Harbour Bridge, the city skyline, the beginnings of the Parramatta River and even Barangaroo below. Henry Deane serves up a feast for the eyes, and anyone who has the pleasure of whiling away a sparkling afternoon followed by a sunset here – like we have – feels actually on top of the world.

Although Henry Deane’s views are grand, he’s an approachable space. During our visit we find a varied mix of visitors: Boomers huddled on lounges, Millennial couples on dates, work colleagues clocking off, and out-of-towners on the deck taking pics of the Opera House. There’s a smart casual dress code, but this isn't the type of place where you’ll get side-eyed for what you’re wearing or who you’re with. Perhaps because, instead of being atop a modern skyscraper or luxe hotel, it’s perched up above a humble Millers Point pub, Hotel Palisade.

Sydney’s CBD is full of bars. Irish- and English-style pubs, American-style sports bars, Japanese whiskey bars, German beer cafés, Spanish tapas bars and, now, hundreds of little wine bars like those you might find in Italy. Sky Bar – which sits at the peak of the multi-tiered venue Shell House – brings a little bit of New York to Sydney. And it's a showstopper. 

Sky Bar has floor-to-ceiling windows so that you’re looking, on three sides of the building, out at Sydney’s CBD – including at the 400-tonne heritage Shell House Clocktower that the building is centred around. It’s not The Most spectacular view of the Emerald City, in that there’s no sparkling harbour or Opera House in sight (hey, there's a lot of competition, right?). But you’re situated smack-back in among skyscrapers, in the sky above the most bustling part of the city. Plant yourself up here in the beautifully designed modern Art Deco-style space with a cocktail to watch the sun go down on the day, and you can easily imagine yourself in the Big Apple.