Zafferano is an endearing Sicilian trattoria found on Paddington’s tree-lined South Dowling Street. Here, bouncy, salt-flaked focaccia is made daily, house specials are written on a piece of butcher's paper that hangs on a wall, and fresh seafood and silky pastas are served in colourful, joyous bowls from Italy. Sicilian-born chef Simone Crivello and his partner Isobel Galloway originally opened Zafferano as a café in 2021, but it wasn’t long before their guests were asking them to stay open in the evenings.
Crivello said: “Bella and I spent a lot of time talking to our diners, and the one thing we kept hearing was how desperately the street needed a trattoria, for lingering afternoon drinks, turned cheerful evenings with friends and food. This is what inspired our relaunch.”
Named after a cape found on Sicily’s northern coast known for its incredible azure waters and rugged coastline – and where Crivello grew up – Zafferano is homage to Simone’s father Francesco and his seafood restaurant, Trattoria Francu U' Piscaturi. Located in the small fishing village next to Cape Zafferano, the seaside diner has been going strong since the 1970s and is a great source of inspiration for Crivello.
You should probably start with panelle, which are thin and crisp deep-fried chickpea fritters eaten as street food in Sicily. Here, it’s served with lemon, fresh bread, olives and Sicilian olive oil. Other highlights on the starters include saute misto – a chef’s choice of seafood cooked with garlic, tomato, parsley and crusty bread for double dipping; and a spread of cured, salty meat and cheese.
Just like his father, Crivello has close relationships with local fishermen, butchers, and farmers to ensure produce is fresh, seasonal and high quality. Bigger numbers include things like spaghetti vongole with clams, garlic, chilli and parsley; spaghetti Capo Zafferano with fried eggplant, anchovies, pinenuts, cherry tomatoes and pecorino; and lemon risotto with saffron, lemon zest, prawns, chilli, garlic and pecorino. On the evening we visited, we tried a special: a hearty lamb ragu with a rich tomato sauce. Wines imported from Sicily are a must.
The interiors at Zafferano were designed by Galloway’s father, former fashion designer Stephen Galloway. From the marble-topped bar to the black and white photos of Trattoria Francu U' Piscaturi and pops of colourful art, Zafferano is elegant as it is homey, and will charm you like a first date.
Now, Zafferano has launched a lunch menu featuring focaccia sandwiches and Sicilian-style pizzas, available Wednesdays to Sundays from 10.30am-3pm. The porchetta sambo with fresh rocket and spiced caramalised onions is our pick.
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