The crème brûlée at Black Bar and Grill, Pyrmont
Maxim Boon, Sydney editor
The humble crème brûlée is kind of like the Bondi Beach of desserts: it’s wildly popular, tried and trusted, but it’s hardly going to earn you much in the way of bragging rights. Throw a stone in any direction in Sydney, and you’re likely to hit a restaurant that has this perennially-pleasing sweet on its menu, so it takes one seriously special variant to stand out from that crowd. And such a brûlée exists at Black Bar and Grill at the Star. This up-market steakhouse is all about classics delivered with sky-high finesse and outstanding produce, but its current brûlée is more than merely very well executed. The cream is an if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it vanilla infusion with a flawlessly smooth texture and depth. So far, so obvious. However, unlike more common-or-garden varieties, this brûlée isn’t about straight-up sugar. The caramel veneer is atom thin, crisp and caramelised to just a hair’s-breadth from burnt so that there’s just a whisper of char on the palate without any overpowering bitterness. A passionfruit and caramel reduction introduces a fruity tartness, which is cranked up to the heavens by a citrus and passion fruit sorbet, so concentrated in sharp, biting flavour that it slices through the otherwise polite creaminess like a bolt of lightning. I’ve had a lot of brûlées in my time, but this one truly is the crème de la crème.