New Shanghai, dumplings
Photograph: Sherry Zheng
Photograph: Sherry Zheng

The best restaurants in Ashfield's 'Little Shanghai'

We're here to dish the dirt on the best of this tiny hub of Shanghainese dining in the Inner West

Michelle Wang
Advertising

There is one road in Sydney where you can run all your errands in Shanghainese, the spoken dialect specific to the cosmopolitan seaside city of Shanghai. Need groceries? The doctor? A hairdresser? Ashfield's Liverpool Road has got you covered. 

But what you’re really here for is the eateries. If you stand outside Ashfield Mall, you'll see a veritable smorgasboard. This is Little Shanghai. 

Here, you'll find steamed soup dumplings, known in Mandarin as xiaolongbao or xio-long-bo in Shanghainese. These are a staple, as are shallot pancakes, pan-fried pork buns (also known as potstickers), fried dough sticks, Shanghai-style pulled noodles (la-mi) and spring rolls. If you recognise any of these plates, after a trip to Little Shanghai, you'll see that they're only a gateway drug to Shanghainese cuisine. 

Recommended: The best Chinese restaurants in Sydney.

Note: All pronunciations are the author's own transliteration of Shanghainese, which is a spoken dialect only.

Stay in the loop: sign up for our free Time Out Sydney newsletter for more news, food & drink inspo and activity ideas, straight to your inbox.

Ashfield's Little Shanghai's best restaurants

  • Ashfield
  • price 1 of 4

You've arrived at the oldest Shanghainese restaurant in Sydney. Not to be confused with New Shanghai Night, which is just two doors down. Shanghai Night is the stubborn uncle who is a bit uncool, and a bit set in his ways – because why change a good thing? 

Some insider goss: The family rivalry between Shanghai Night and New Shanghai is well-known in the Shanghainese community, as they are run by relatives. The interior is unfussy and homely, just like the food. Don’t hold back on ordering dumplings, noodles or rice dishes here – your stomach and wallet won’t be going home empty.

Take yourself to a higher place (read: carbohydrate heaven) via crispy shallot pancakes, spring rolls, pan-fried dumplings, and even peruse the dedicated congee section of the menu. Congee is a rice porridge that can be comfortingly gulped down with anything at any time of day – a meal, a drink, chicken soup for the soul™? It does it all. Expect every gulp of your bi-de-sew-nu-zo, or preserved egg and lean pork congee to contain a little morsel of pork or a silky shard of preserved century egg (yes, that’s the black egg).

If you’ve got room, order the ni-go, or rice cakes in XO sauce. These chewy discs play well with the umami-bomb coating of XO sauce, a popular condiment of dried shrimp, scallops, salted ham, shallots, garlic, chilli and oil.

275 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield.

https://media.timeout.com/images/106025849/image.jpg
Michelle Wang
Contributor
  • Ashfield
  • price 1 of 4

New Shanghai dishes up a crowd-pleasing menu of classics catering more comfortably to the Australian palette. Consider it the polished and slightly pricier version of its OG homie, Shanghai Night.

Time to introduce a local breakfast and snack icon which you can find at New Shanghai: sung-ji-bo, or pan-fried pork bun. Visually, it’s the one that twists up in the middle, rather than in the dumpling shape. The secret to these bodacious buns lies in the special pan-frying technique that firms up the bottom and leaves the rest of the bun soft and springy. It’s hard to stop once you’ve bitten into the alternately crisp and doughy casing filled with famously savoury pork (famously savoury meaning the typical mouthwatering Shang marinade of ginger, light soy sauce, rice wine, spring onion, szechuan pepper.)

When you're done, pop next door to the New Shanghai Workshop, the Chinese deli that is a unique feature of the Ashfield New Shanghai, to pick up some yu-bing, or Shanghainese-style mooncakes. Mooncakes are especially popular during the Mid-autumn Festival in October, and the Shanghai region is known for its pork paste version. At the Workshop, you'll find them wrapped in layers of flaky pastry, with a red seal on top. Why not try a sauerkraut mooncake for a bit of bite? Relish the equilibrium of soft, tangy fibrous cabbage enfolded by crumbly, greasy pastry. 

273 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield. 

https://media.timeout.com/images/106025849/image.jpg
Michelle Wang
Contributor

Read more

Haymarket’s Chinatown is a true melange of different Asian cuisines, regional specialities and shifting traditions. For my family, heading to this neighbourhood for a meal is a weekly ritual. We've been exploring this vibrant corner of the city for more than 20 years, and we've discovered hidden gems serving up all kinds of deliciousness from across Asia. Each meal is a way for my Chinese-Indonesian family to bond over shared memories of home, discuss the latest family gossip and, as my dad would say, “be around our people”. 

Recommended
    You may also like
    You may also like
    Advertising