✍️ Time Out Sydney never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more, here.
As a teenager, my mum would take me out for dinner somewhere special in Sydney a couple of times a year as a treat. One of those restaurants was Spice Temple, the CBD’s subterranean diner that specialises in regional Chinese cuisine, from Sichuan to Yunnan, Hunan and Guangxi. Neil Perry, one of Australia’s most esteemed chefs and, now, unofficial mayor of Double Bay, opened Spice Temple in January 2009, with Andy Evans as head chef. I remember the interiors were dark and moody. I also remember thinking it was one of the most delicious meals I’d ever had.
More than a decade later, a few things have changed at 10 Bligh Street. A recent renovation has seen the moving display on the heavy black door disappear. The carpet is plush, the bathrooms are decked out in pretty floral wallpaper, and there’s a lobster tank near the host’s desk.
A few things are still the same. For one, Evans is still here, leading the kitchen (Perry has since moved on to open Margaret and Song Bird). As are those long, black curved lights. Service is as professional, warm and intuitive as ever. The upbeat, ‘90s pop hits remain. It’s still dark. I’m here with my mum, but this time I’m taking her out.
And, happily, Spice Temple is as delicious as ever
It’s time for a drink. Here, cocktails are named after Chinese zodiac animals, so that’s how I find myself requesting the Rat. Made with jalapeno-infused mezcal, coca leaf liqueur, agave and lime, it tastes like a smoky, spicy Margarita. We also order two lots of pickles: batons of sweetened daikon with black sesame seeds and strips of ginger; and chopped cucumber, fragrant with sesame seed oil, mint and garlic. Crunchy, cool, yum. We’re ready.
Slices of buttery, ruby-red yellowfin tuna are bolstered by an incredible sweet and caramelised chilli-spiked orange oil, while a bed of shredded iceberg lettuce provides a fresh and textural element. It’s my fourth time having this dish, and I think it’s one of my fave raw tuna numbers in Sydney.
A frisbee-sized lamb and cumin pancake arrives with a crisp, bronzed pastry sprinkled with sea salt flakes; the meat inside heady with aromatic spice. We spoon on roasted chilli, which tastes like Lao Gan Ma – AKA crack. It’s salty – perhaps too much for some – but I dig it, always have.
It’s the kind of dish made to go with a cold beer (or a hangover)
We’re still firmly on the chilli train with a bowl of white-cut chicken with ‘strange flavour’ dressing – a Spice Temple classic. Shredded chicken is submerged in a creamy, nutty sesame seed and peanut sauce and topped with fluorescent chilli oil, a handful of sesame seeds and spring onions. The chicken is succulent, and ground Sichuan pepper provides a numbing punch.
Riesling is a safe choice with spice-rich food, and a bottle of 2023 Pewsey Vale's Prima Riesling from Eden Valley is the perfect match. It balances out the heat while letting the wine’s flavours – citrus with a touch of sweetness – come alive.
Wagyu brisket with baby eggplant and chilli paste is another bonafide hit – it's tender, pull-apart meat coated in a rich, deeply flavoured savoury sauce. Fluffy, ’80s-inspired fried rice with bits of caramelised sweet pineapple, peas, egg and bacon is a great companion, as is a side of stir-fried verdant bok choy with garlic.
I’ve over-ordered, again, but it’s not really my fault because it’s all so good and also because the menu is so long
I’m keen to come back and try the hotpots, prepared at the new dining room station. But really, I’m keen to keep on coming back for the next 15 years, because I’m yet to meet a Spice Temple dish I haven’t loved.
In a city that’s drawn to flashy new openings like a crush who hasn’t texted you back, it’s also important to recognise and appreciate the Sydney stalwarts that manage to stay open and thrive through the years. I’ve dated enough chefs to know that Evans’ loyalty and commitment to Spice Temple is as remarkable as it is rare. I also believe that’s largely why the quality, flavour and execution of the food have remained consistent all these years, backed up by a stellar front- and back-of-house team.
If it’s been a while between visits, come on down to flavour town. I reckon your mum will love it here, too.
Stay in the loop: sign up for our free Time Out Sydney newsletter for more news, food & drink inspo and activity ideas, straight to your inbox.