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I reckon Neil Perry would be great at Monopoly. You only need to stroll along Bay Street to imagine the veteran chef making it rain on Mayfair. There’s his elegant fine diner Margaret, which was voted the third best steak restaurant in the world for 2024. Next door to that is Next Door, Margaret’s casual-and-breezy sibling, home to a cracking burger. Then there’s Baker Bleu, a haven for excellent baked goods (go for the chicken and avo sandwich).
Now, further up the road is where you’ll find Perry’s latest diner, Song Bird, set within the three-storey, mid-century heritage-listed building, Gaden House, by architect Neville Gruzman. Perry says he thought of the name while in the sun-dappled dining room looking out the window to the birds in the trees. (Downstairs you’ll also find Bobbie’s, a five-star, New York-style Martini bar co-owned by Perry, his wife Samantha and close friends).
Song Bird is an ode to Perry’s lifelong love of Cantonese cuisine
He knows the symphony of Chinese flavours well, having first opened Wokpool in 1996 and XO in 2005, followed by the CBD’s subterranean fire house Spice Temple in 2009, which, while no longer under Perry’s reign, is still going strong 15 years later. Some may also remember Jade Temple, Perry’s Cantonese fine diner (or they may not, considering the Bridge Street restaurant was only open for a year). Song Bird is said to be Perry’s last restaurant.
It’s also said to have cost him millions of dollars and likely millions of hours of lost sleep, due to building complications and setbacks, namely with the pièce de résistance: a regal-looking circular staircase that anchors the space. ACME and Caon Design are behind the 230-seat classy fitout, which features a muted colour palette of greys and browns, marble features, glowing lanterns and shiny silver beams that look like futuristic spring rolls supporting the roof. If you’re coming with a group, up on the third floor is where you’ll find the larger tables decked out with lazy Susans.
There’s a selection of Song Bird Martinis and signature cocktails. I begin with the Pandan Martini (vodka, dry vermouth, pandan, grapefruit bitters and prosecco), which is subtle, sweet and tastes like the tropics.
Song Bird’s menu, overseen by head chef Mark Lee (who Perry brought over from Margaret) is broken up into pickles, dumplings, appetisers, roast, seafood, meat, vegetables, noodles and rice (AKA Perry’s greatest hits).
Spencer Gulf king prawn wontons arrive with sesame-seed freckles and are doused in a black vinegar and chilli sauce so good I want to drink up every last drop, but I don’t – because, well, Double Bay. Though I’d like them to be juicier. Meanwhile, a white-cut chicken salad, sourced from NSW’s solar-powered Sun Farm, comes crowned with sliced spring onions and hits hard on the succulent front, but needs a touch more seasoning to bring it to life.
Peking duck lands gracefully on our table alongside cucumber sticks, thinly sliced spring onions, Hoisin sauce, sugar and golden breadcrumbs. The duck’s skin is glossy and bronzed; its meat cooked beautifully, dripping in juices. We wrap it up in a mandarin pancake and it delivers on salty, sweet, crunchy and fresh notes. It pairs wonderfully with a glass of Kumeu River Village 2022 pinot noir that’s soft and savoury-leaning with red fruit and tannins.
A delicate dish of coral trout, hand-caught by Ben Collison in North Queensland, is gorgeous. The meaty flesh is just-cooked and the accompanying ginger and shallot dressing with a hint of sesame oil is balanced, aromatic and nostalgic.
As well as a commitment to working with Australia’s best suppliers, one of the great things about Perry is that you’ll often catch him in his venues; his passion and dedication as clear as a person’s vision after hitting up Specsavers. I’ve seen him clearing plates at Next Door, welcoming guests at Baker Bleu, and in the kitchen at Margaret. Tonight at Song Bird, he’s moving from table to table welcoming guests. Though he doesn’t reach us, I appreciate the sentiment.
It may be too early to know if Song Bird is going to soar. Some may argue that you can find equally good (if not better) Cantonese food in Sydney at a lower price point. But considering Perry’s stellar reputation and steadfast, loyal Double Bay regulars, I think Song Bird is going to fly just fine.
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