Let’s get some things out of the way. Yes, Silvester’s is located on the ground floor of a hotel – the Sydney Harbour Marriott Hotel at Circular Quay, to be exact. And yes, the restaurant inevitably does look kinda hotel-y, with a muted colour palette, towering ceiling, and statement lights that look like the Olympic rings. But that’s where the average news stops, because Silvester’s has just appointed new head chef Abhi Dey to take over the reins, and his cooking is anything but.
First, some nice history about the location. The Silvester brothers were two of Sydney’s first butchers, who sliced and diced on the corner of Pitt Street and Bulletin Lane (where Silvester’s is located) in the early 1900s, for more than 30 years. Today, the restaurant pays homage to those fine meat purveyors, with a menu that focuses on cured meats, fresh seafood, local produce and prime cuts from the butcher’s block. And after eating here, we think the duo would be pretty stoked with where their little old butcher shop has ended up.
Born in Kolkata, India, Dey has spent time working at award-winning restaurants around the world, including the Michelin-starred Gaggan in Bangkok and the Sugar Club at Skycity in Auckland, where he was head chef. Here at Silvester’s, Dey has created a contemporary Australian menu, featuring an á la carte and ‘chef’s selection’ menu.
Dey says: “I’m inspired by local producers and artisans and the cultures in which I’m working. Coming to Australia, I am inspired by the landscape and incredible produce that is abundant here, and I am looking forward to showcasing this on the menu at Silvester’s.”
Standouts on the chef’s selection include Spencer Gulf kingfish with persimmon, lemon myrtle and almond fraiche; dry-aged Wollemi duck with Davidson plum ketchup and beetroot; and Margra lamb rump with black garlic, wood ear mushrooms and bone marrow. Plus, a dessert of bay leaf ice cream with berries and fig leaf, which took us right back to the streets of Kolkata circa 2013. All up, Dey’s cooking style is considered, clever, and creative; his dishes perfectly balanced, plated exquisitely, and are things you want to eat again and again.
Pair your meal with a drop from the booze list, which features more than 80 Australian and New Zealand vinos, plus Australian sparkling, French champagne and signature cocktails.
Having a staycation? Firsty, lucky you. And secondly, Silvester’s is where breakfast is at, and it’s a pretty damn good one too. All the usual suspects are there – fresh fruit, bacon, sausages, and eggs – plus smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels, fresh pastries, really great omelettes, and more.