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Have you eaten the bones of coral trout before? Neither had I, until a few weeks ago when I dined at the new Saint Peter, which has moved down the road from its original Oxford Street location (where it stood for eight years) to Paddington’s Grand National Hotel. The tasting menu kicks off with an exquisite coral trout noodle soup, featuring a bright, umami and savoury consommé enhanced by roasted coral trout bones. At the bottom are soft, bamboo skewer-like noodles also made from the trout’s bones. When Niland says he and the team use 90 per cent of each fish to create their dishes, he’s not joking. Also: the result is absolutely delicious; my eyes as wide as those googly-eyed fish while eating it. Chicken noodle soup, watch out.
Josh Niland is a genius, but you probably already know that. For years, he has been practising nose-to-tail magic, showing the world the limitless possibilities with creatures of the sea, whether that’s transforming fish eyes into velvety ice-cream, or giving beef and pork a run for their money with his legendary yellowfin tuna and swordfish bacon cheeseburger. He proves it yet again at Saint Peter 2.0, a project five-and-a-half-years in the making by Niland and his wife, Julie.
Across nine exquisite courses, Niland celebrates seafood in all its glory, while championing sustainability with each convincing bite.
There’s a plate of fish charcuterie made from the secondary cuts that rival the spreads found in Sydney’s best wine bars. Things like spiced yellowfin tuna and Murray cod chorizo, a silky rock flathead mortadella, and earthy John Dory liver pâté. It’s even better paired with a smooth and chilled Oyster Shell Martini, served at the table with a little pearlescent jug so the rest of the cocktail stays cold. Clever.
Niland’s signature fish flower is back, the slices of the fish – sometimes garfish or king George whiting, tonight it’s blue mackerel from Ulladulla – arranged to look like petals. The fish is salted before being lightly pickled in Champagne vinegar and seasoned at the table with a lively, saline dressing made from olive brine and fish trimmings. Fiore sourdough is there as a mop, as well as the ferry for the almost-too-pretty-to-eat giant pearl of butter sitting in an oyster shell.
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Bouncy fettuccine-like strands of tender, just-cooked calamari are twirled through a bolognese-like tuna ’nduja that is rich, oily and meaty with a hint of chilli. Another course titled ‘hapuka and its parts’ sees a perfectly cooked fillet of sea-sweet hapuka wrapped in nori alongside sea succulents, broccoli and a frothy smoked eel butter, which reminds me of the surf after a wild storm. On the side is the hapuka’s tripe, crumbed and deep-fried and paired with a fragrant parsley chermoula and punchy seaweed tapenade.
I can’t believe I am saying this but: fish tripe, Niland’s way, is seriously good.
There’s not one, but three, dessert courses, including Julie’s famous canary-yellow meyer lemon tart; the dollop of cream on top torched at the table for a side of theatrics. Balls of native Aussie fruit sorbet, such as desert lime and Davidson plum, are zingy, zesty and refreshing. And sweets of the sea means chocolate shells encasing Murray Cod fat caramel, and French-approved macarons layered with an incredible vanilla cream made from the whites of a fish's eye. See? Genius.
The dining room is elegant and warm with an earthy palette, pops of vivid colour thanks to Paddington’s florist Bess, and, similar to Petermen, art by Australian artist Ken Done delight from the walls (the one titled ‘Outback’ is my personal favourite). To take a page out of Harry Styles’ book, the tables feel like real tables. And service is impeccable.
This is special-occasion dining. The nine-course tasting menu will set you back $275 per person, though there’s also an à la carte menu available at lunch. But the good news is you don’t need to spend that much cash to enjoy a slice of the (fish) pie. There’s a separate bar area – literally called Saint Peter Bar – that serves drinks and snacks that nod to the pub’s history (including a curried hapuka pie and salad). You don’t need to book (in fact, you can’t), but you can and most certainly should drop in for a frosty Oyster Shell Martini or a Yulli’s beer, Niland’s cheeseburger, or a jammy scotch egg. There’s also a selection of preserved sea creatures, all from our own backyard. At the bar is where you’ll find me next.
Growing up, little girls used to idolise Ariel, Disney’s princess of the ocean. I think it’s pretty cool that now little girls and boys – and young chefs all across the world – will grow up idolising Josh Niland, king of the sea, and one of the most genuine and nicest people you’ll meet. I can think of no finer role model in Australia right now. (OK, Hamish Blake is still up there.)
Forget catch of the day; Saint Peter is Sydney’s catch of the century.
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