Located midway between the train station and Redfern Park, this laid-back bistro is an easy lunch pick – there’s rustic favourites like croque madames and chicken liver parfait served with Madeira jelly on a warm baguette, although you can also order many of the heartier mains on offer at dinner. ‘En papillote’ is a distinctively French method of cooking in which ingredients are placed in a folded pouch of paper and then baked, resulting in a steamed effect; here, the poisson en papillote is market fish cooked with lemon and white wine, served with zucchini and preserved lemon and pine nut dressing. Another classic, steak-frites, is made here with rib-eye beef and hand-cut fries. For those on a budget, they do set course specials starting at $39, as well as apéritif specials if you prefer to dine early.
Of course, any conversation about French cuisine must address those two great loves of the nation: wine and cheese. Despite its small size Pitt St Diner boasts an eclectic list of over 150 wines, spanning aged Chablis and Tempranillos shipped in from Europe to funky natural and biodynamic drops from Mudgee. Finish the meal with a self-selected cheeseboard, choosing from wedges like creamy papillon roquefort or soft délice de Bourgogne.