Italy’s Amalfi Coast is known for its vibrant, warm colours, fresh pasta and a spritz of lemon (and the charming towns found along that coastline, of course). This is what you can expect to find at new neighbourhood trattoria Nico, now open in North Sydney’s Cammeray – just without the coastal views.
Headed up by Italian-born chef Nicola Ronconi and his business partner Ewa Witkowska, Nico showcases takes on Italian classics, with inspiration drawn from the Amalfi Coast to Sardinia, Puglia, Lake Garda and Venice.
Ronconi has more than 20 years of experience under his belt, including time cooking at three Michelin-starred The Fat Duck in London, as well as Matteo Downtown and Double Bay here in Sydney. (He was also the former group executive chef of Sydney hospitality giant Urban Purveyor Group, best known for Fratelli Fresh. The group later acquired Neil Perry’s restaurants, becoming Rockpool Dining Group.) But Nico is the first restaurant of his own.
“I thought it was the right time to show Sydney my philosophy of hospitality and open a place where we can make people feel at home but at the same time feel like they are on a holiday,” Ronconi said.
So, just like in Italy, fresh, in-season and locally sourced produce is key at Nico. You could begin with plates like kingfish crudo with Aperol Spritz and black olives; and Abrolhos Islands scallops with ’nduja butter and finger limes, before trying Nico’s housemade fresh pasta. We’d go for the mafaldine with blue swimmer crab, saffron and cherry tomatoes; and gigli with friarielli (bitter greens), sausage ragu and fermented chilli.
As for dessert? Ronconi’s signature lemon tiramisu – a twist on the original that he’s been perfecting since he first made it in his hometown more than 13 years ago – is a must-order.
Warm terracottas, royal blues and natural timbers make up the sunny space.
Ciao, Nico. Let’s kick off with a Spritz.