You need to know two things about the Risky Brisket from MLK Deli. The second thing is that it’s massive: the Reuben-leaning sambo arrives on organic rye ciabatta, loaded with slow-cooked, smoked brisket pastrami that’s tender and spiced, melted Swiss cheese, zingy sauerkraut and a sweet-and-creamy house-made sauce. It’s served with a handful of salt-and-vinegar chips and pickles on the side. And the first? It’s absolutely delicious.
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MLK Deli is a tiny, cobalt-blue deli on Campbell Street in Surry Hills, and it’s 100 per cent halal. Opening in early 2024, it’s the first venture from Myra Karakelle (MLK stands for Myra’s Little Kitchen). Myra’s heritage – her mother is Uzbek, her father Afghan, and her husband Turkish – shines through on the menu. You’ll find sandwiches like MJ’s Chicken, featuring Uzbek-style juicy chicken thighs, MJ’s magic sauce and fresh lettuce; or the Big Boy, which comes with Afghan-style lamb meatballs, rocket and tahini.
There are eight sambos on the menu, including a vegan and vego option, plus a breakfast offering for early risers: the Brekky Briskey, loaded with brisket, two eggs, a hashbrown and your choice of sauce on a brioche bun (add cheese if you live on the edge). Next time, we’re keen to try the whopping Deli Sando, with mortadella, Wagyu salami, turkey ham, olives, roasted capsicum, agrodolce, pecorino, provolone and deli sauce. Or the MLK, which will transport you straight to Florence with its winning combination of olive mortadella, stracciatella, pesto, olives, honey and pistachio on focaccia.
Coffee beans are sourced from Supreme, and for something cool, there’s lemonade made from freshly squeezed lemons and flavoured soda water (we’re fans of the passionfruit). A glass cabinet is stocked with treats, including a drool-worthy twice-baked brown butter and choc chip cookie, Basque cheesecake, gooey brownies and Nutella crisps.
Shelves at the back of the store are lined with deli goods, including Perelló Gordal olives, Olsson’s sea salt, Lebanese pickled turnips, Italian sardines and Turkish rosehip marmalade.
There are a handful of seats inside, but if you’re lucky, you’ll nab one outside under the leafy trees and dappled sunshine. And if it’s your first visit, we say go for the Risky.