Eggs and tofu. Let’s be frank: It’s not really the kind of thing you crave when you’re heading out for lunch or dinner, unless of course you’re training for the Sydney Marathon and counting your macros. But the eggs and tofu dish at Merivale’s latest instalment, Good Luck Restaurant Lounge, will put any bland notions to bed. Crisp and golden fried eggs rest on a bed of whipped silken tofu before being topped with a chilli sauce and a scattering of verdant chives. We’re given scissors to cut it up, and the glorious, sunny yolks run free. In it goes. Crunchy, salty, creamy, it’s an umami bomb – one of many to come – and one of the most delicious things I’ve eaten this year. Thanks, eggs and tofu (and yes, you too MSG).
But really, thank you to executive chef Mike Eggert (also of Totti's) who is fluent in the language of flavour and the brains behind the menu at this new underground restaurant, located in the basement of the historic Burns Philp building on Bridge Street. A project three years in the making by Eggert and CEO Justin Hemmes, the 240-seater’s name pays homage to Eggert’s former Good Luck Pinbone pop-up. With its live seafood tanks, Chinese-leaning flavour combos (hi, ginger and shallot), and nostalgic plastic menus, Good Luck may not be what I first anticipated when I wrote the "coming soon" story about this place ("Totti's with a spin of Tokyo” was the angle from the initial press release). That said, it may be even better.
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The first thing you’ll see when you arrive is a pink sign with the words “Feeling lucky” and an arrow pointing down, a playful wink to the fun that’s to come.
Inside is decked out in a colour palette of spearmint and Burgundy. Everywhere you glance there’s intrigue and interest, from the chandelier that looks like hanging soft-pink calla lilies to the retro fish ornaments, floral vintage banquettes and brilliant art that ranges from traditional and ornate Asian works to a giant kitten with flowers. Designed by Akin Atelier’s Kelvin Ho and said to be inspired by Hong Kong eateries, neon-lit karaoke bars and the underground dining scene of Tokyo and New York in the ’70s, it’s hard to overstate just how thoroughly considered and beautiful the space is.
Cocktails have been created by Merivale’s top shaker, James Irvine, and just like the eggs, boring they are not. My date goes for the Miso Corny, made with Maker’s Mark, miso butter, charred corn and katsuobushi (bonito flakes). It sounds like a lot, but in reality it’s a sophisticated drink with subtle smoky notes – like a glass of whisky on ice, finished with a hint of buttery sweetness from the corn. “A good gateway drug for non-whisky lovers,” she says, and I agree. I go for the Tingly Paloma with Código Rosa tequila, grapefruit soda, finger lime and chilli salt on the glass, and it tastes like a boozy icy pole.
You could begin with a trio of toasted peanuts, cool cucumbers and zippy pickles paired with a thirst-quenching Kirin. Even better is the herb salad, lush with fresh mint, coriander, shiso and Thai basil that stays on the table for you to pick off and garnish as you please. It comes with four punchy, flavour-packed sambals (green chilli, green chilli with pineapple, chilli with macadamia, and a make-you-sweat habanero). Order the bouncy burnt-onion bread that pulls apart like petals of a flower and you’ll be off to a flying start.
Smoked pork spring rolls – which arrive with a golden bronze armour and a tender pulled-pork filling and a five-spice mayo for dipping – are a cracker. They go down a treat with a crisp and dry glass of 2022 Les Quatre Tours Estrelia rosé from the top-notch wine list curated by Jacqueline Doucette, the former sommelier of Copenhagen’s Geranium, named The World’s Best Restaurant in 2022.
There’s a whole section dedicated to noodles on the menu, which are really pasta, and great ones at that. Case in point: linguini twirled in a buttery ginger, shallot and sesame coating that tastes like the kind of thing chefs would enjoy after a double shift. Ie: comforting, filling, yum.
Grilled Murray cod is a stand-out, the clean-tasting flesh succulent, the skin blackened and crisp, and amped up with an aromatic sambal with beads of finger lime that I would like to bottle and take home with me. A side of charred corn with green garlic and smoked butter is tops, and a simple shredded cabbage salad injects freshness. We finish with a milk and chocolate soft serve flaked with sea salt that’s as tasty as it is cute.
When it’s time to go, it feels like we’re farewelling a house party, and one we don't want to leave
Merivale cops a lot of flack – some founded, some not – but I reckon they’ve knocked it out of the park (again) with Good Luck Restaurant Lounge. The dishes can be rich (in fact, they’re too rich for my beautician). And it can get rowdy. Like, it's probably too loud for my dad. But when delicious food and having a fun time is on the agenda, Good Luck meets the brief and then some.
So, do I reckon you’ll have a good time here? Hell, I'd say it’s going to be great.
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