Think there’s not much action happening north of the bridge? Think again. Genzo, a fun and modern Japanese restaurant and sake bar, is now open in Etymon’s new supercharged Walker Street precinct. The funky diner is joined by bakery and wine bar Sol Brea and Wine; food-lover’s paradise Una; and relaxed LA-inspired restaurant, Soluna. And if you’re not sure who Etymon Projects is, they’re the hospo group behind top Sydney spots The Charles, Poetica, Loulou Bistro and more, so they know what’s up.
Lit up by rainbow neon lights and works by Tokyo artist Masanori Ushiki, it’s a cool space, and features a 28-seater cocktail and sake bar (with its own temperature-controlled sake room), a 90-seat dining room and an all-weather terrace.
Executive chef Rhys Connell (ex-The Gantry and Sepia) is heading up the kitchen at Genzo alongside Tuan Colombo (ex-Sokyo, Nobu London) serving riffs on Japanese dishes. There’s an avo and Vegemite starter served on a crisp rice cake; yellowfin tuna on a stracciatella and umeboshi (Japanese salt plum) onigiri; and scallop sashimi topped with whipped roe and wasabi. Larger numbers include roasted duck and house-made soba noodle tsukemen (a type of ramen); and Murray cod lathered in kombu butter. Flame-licked skewers and sticks cooked on the robata are the go here. Our pick is the Blackmore Wagyu glazed with yuzu-kosho wrapped in a Tasmanian wasabi leaf.
Connell said: “I love the complexity and elegance of Japanese flavours and dishes and how incorporating Australian influences can work beautifully.”
“The menu is refined but very approachable - apart from a few one-bite snacks, everything is either on sticks or eaten with sticks. It works whether you are at the bar or in it for a full dining experience in the restaurant,” he adds.
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Desserts are created by head of pastry Rhiann Mead (also The Charles, Sol and Soluna) and we hear there’s a Kit Kat-inspired treat with chocolate ganache, sesame praline and black sesame mousse on the menu, and honestly, take our money already.
Back to the sake. The list, which has been curated by sommelier Thomas Craig, features entry-style tipples to those for the sake-enthusiasts amongst us, and you can order it by the glass, tokkuri (Japanese carafe) and bottle. It goes alongside the 100-strong wine list that spans drops from Australia, France and Japan.
Catch you north of the bridge!
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