In 2013, chef Mat Lindsay opened a small restaurant and bar in the back streets of Chippendale built around a wood-fired oven. Back then, natural wine wasn’t on every venue’s list, cauliflower was still boiled, and people didn’t usually associate bread with potato. Lindsay – who cut his teeth working with flames and Neil Perry at Rockpool, as well as Kylie Kwong at Billy Kwong, where he learnt the importance of balance of flavour – flipped Sydney’s dining scene on its head, much like a punter flips a coin at two-up.
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At Ester, he roasted cauliflower heads until they were blackened, served blood sangas on pillowy bread, and warm potato bread alongside kefir and pops of salmon roe. Wine was natural, organic or biodynamic. Service was as welcoming and warm as if you’d just walked into a mate’s house. And just like a catchy Chappell Roan hit, Sydney couldn't get enough of it.
More than a decade later, the city is still in love with this neighbourhood restaurant, and while it remains small in size, Ester is a big part of our dining DNA. It’s a joyous, fire-kissed, relaxed and delicious restaurant, and one which Sydneysiders feel proud to have in the city.
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