Start with the Arak, a pungent licorice alcohol that puts Italy’s grappa to shame. Only have one though, or you may not remember the rest of your meal. Waitstaff enthusiastically push the banquet, describing it as “a tantalising array of Lebanese cuisine in one degustation,” and we’re happy to oblige. Tray after tray of homous, labne, tabouli, grilled meats, shish kebabs and batata fill our table. The star is the baba gannoush, with big smoky flavours. You can taste every ember of the burnt sides of well-oiled eggplant, with a punch of lemon. The tabouli is a Pollock painting of bright red tomatoes and parsley with the same tart acidity that cuts into the fat dripping from the skewers of lamb and chicken. Among the grilled meats on skewers, stick with the shish tawouk, sliding right off the skewer in a stream of luscious meat juice.
