You know that moment after you eat a spicy thing, when it manages to get even spicier. Your lips tingle, your nose is sniffing and you’re reaching for another futile sip of water. And yet, it’s so good you go in for another bite almost immediately. That's the level of heat this Northern Thai joint is packing, so it’s not for spice babies. This narrow, long restaurant is the second from Pla Rojratanavicha, who is also behind nearby Khao Pla. At Chum Tang, a feisty beef stir fry has dozens of diagonal slices of chilli, wilted betel leaf, mini green baubles of pea eggplant and glossy chilli oil through it. It’s redonkulously hot, but worth it.
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