A Melbourne pasta master opened this slick, perennially popular Italian bistro below the Cambridge Hotel a few years back, but you won’t find second-rate spaghetti here. Dishes like mezze maniche with smoked tuna amatriciana ($29) keep locals loyal. These large housemade tubes of pasta (named for the shape of the local monks’ sleeves in Emilia Romagna) are cooked to perfect al dente chewiness and tossed with smoky, earthy tuna belly balanced by caramelised onion and tomato sauce.
