Much-loved CBD Greek eatery Alpha looks a little different these days. At its helm is still head chef Peter Conistis, the man behind Greek hotspots of yore Omega and Civic Dining and often heralded as a pioneer in Sydney's Greek dining scene. But it has undergone a multimillion-dollar transformation and boasts a new look, new feel and an almost entirely new menu.
Most of Alpha's old dishes have cleared out in order to make room for the new. But a few stalwarts remain: the moussaka with scallops, a slow-roasted lamb, and Conistis's famous spanakopita, with its tissue-paper-light pastry holding the weight of a salty mix of fetta and spinach. Classic Greek favourite, taramasalata, is whipped into a pink, airy cloud topped with umami rich shaved bottarga and fresh pops of salmon roe. The amount of lemon veers the dip dangerously close to shocking bitterness before a rich fruity note of olive oil guides us right back on course. Smoky charred flatbread provides the perfect vessel for scooping and frankly, one could simply make a whole meal of this bread and leave perfectly content. But that would mean the disservice of never eating the woodfired Fremantle octopus, perfectly tender with just the right amount of resistance.
Making full use of the recently installed woodfired oven and the larger kitchen – you'll find a suckling lamb on the spit, a pork kontosouvli with cracked potatoes and red wine.
At Alpha, it's not just the menu that's changed. The old atrium has been transformed into a marble bar, where you can pick from the main menu, or try some meze from a shorter list. The once small kitchen has become an open stage, with any sharp edges and hard surfaces bevelled and curved to create an inviting sense of warmth. While the space is so brightly lit you’d never know if it were day or night, the backlit wine displays feel more like you’ve walked into an upscale apothecary than a restaurant. The stark lighting is contrasted by a floor-to-ceiling sandstone carving of the Greek alphabet which on its own might border on gauche, yet alongside the clean and feminine palate transforms from a potential eye-sore into a dramatic focal point.
While calling this rendition of Greek cuisine revolutionary and modern might be a stretch, what is dished up is still excellent and familiar flavours in outstanding style. Part of the twelve-million-dollar refurb is a multi-use event space on the second floor, aptly named Beta, with the ever-present curved heritage archways and golden pendant lights. Once renovations are complete, there will even be a rooftop nightclub, seven floors above the city street.