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It’s brunch time, and in front of me is a delicious looking bitta-this, bitta-that breakfast plate. I’m obsessed with them – the whole of Sydney is, really – and this one looks particularly good.
There’s baked-fresh-that-day sourdough toast with a smear of salted butter, an open soft-boiled egg with a bright and jammy centre, slices of leg ham, a triangle of crumbly cheddar, a tumble of thinly sliced onion, wedges of pickled green tomatoes, and a fig. On a separate plate sits a bronzed croissant with butter and jam, and in front of me is a glass of wine.
Look, I know it’s not best practice to drink before noon (sorry, mum), but I’m in carb heaven – also known as A.P Bread & Wine. It's the first-ever all-day offering from A.P Bakery, and it also pours vino. How could I say no?
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Located on Burton Street in Darlinghurst, a few streets back from Oxford Street, A.P Bread & Wine joins an already-strong family line-up: the OG A.P Bakery, found on Paramount House Hotel’s sunny rooftop; A.P Supply, both in Surry Hills; Newtown’s A.P Town; the CBD’s A.P Place; and a weekly stall at Carriageworks Farmers Market (get down early for that one).
Two things all the A.P venues have in common? They all sell excellent baked goods, and are often more packed than a Jetstar flight to Bali. That’s thanks to its all-star founders and team: Ping Jin Ng (Paramount House, Golden Age, Paramount House Hotel) Russell Beard (Reuben Hills, Paramount Coffee Project, Paramount House Hotel), chef Mat Lindsay (Ester, Poly) and head baker Dougal Muffet. Together, they have found a winning, wheat-fuelled formula.
A.P Bread & Wine is housed in a heritage-listed sandstone cottage, with a smart dining room and two courtyards designed for catching up with friends over hot Reuben Hills coffee and buttery pastries. Loaves of sourdough, ham and cheese baguettes, pretty Danishes and cracking pies make up the grab-and-go options. If you’re here for brekkie or brunch, choose from things like toasted brioche with whipped ricotta, blueberries, honey and fried rosemary; breakfast pizza with a tomato base, gruyère, asiago and prosciutto; and a protein-rich breakfast muffin with chicken, egg and cheese.
On the lunch menu, there's a blue mackerel sandwich amped up with green zhug and herbs, as is a bowl of pasta made from leftover bread, paired with zucchini and anchovy breadcrumbs. Dinner features a selection of snacks and share-style plates, all designed to go with vino. The succinct wine list mostly features Australian varietals (bar two French drops) and there’s a handful of beers, cocktails, organic sodas and digestifs too.
And that brekkie plate? It’s five-star, all the way.
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