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The humble rissole has had a mighty, meaty makeover at 20 Chapel in Marrickville. The chefs at the modern Marrickville steakhouse have swapped mincemeat for Blackmore Wagyu in order to revive the fortunes of this retro Aussie classic that was consumed during both world wars as a means to stretch meat rations supplied by the Australian government. One of the new restaurant’s staples, they arrive scorched on the outside and meltingly tender on the inside. The old-fashioned addition of a rich, fried onion gravy helps to lift the rissoles, which are as rare as beef tartare on the inside.
It's the ultimate nostalgic indulgence.
Chefs Corey Costelloe (the former culinary director at Hunter St Hospitality and Rockpool Bar & Grill) and Dave Allison (Stix Cafe and Catering) are behind the new venue where everything remains in step with the seasonal organic produce grown at Allison’s Hawkesbury farm, Stix. The pair have teamed up with former maître d' at Rockpool, Anthony Qalilawa, who dances expertly around the dining room floor of the restaurant that opened its doors in June.
20 Chapel is directly under the flight path and we appreciate the drama of arriving under the roar of an A380, a timely nod to the fact Allison held a contract to supply Qantas with First and Business Class meals to Neil Perry’s specifications for almost a decade.
The soaring 66-seater dining room was a warehouse and loading dock in its first life and the industrial space has been prettied up with hanging pendant lighting, polished concrete floors and sconces buttoned to the walls. You can sit at the banquette that runs the length of the restaurant, around the stunning marble-topped bar or at the intimate 12-seater chef’s table behind the atrium-style glass-fronted kitchen.
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Apart from the banquette seating and chef’s table, there are tables set for two, four and six placed around the dining room. There’s a young family of four beside us, all breezy cheerfulness, not an electronic device in sight. A hipster couple to our right: one of them wearing a t-shirt with a cartoon cat, the other Dr Martens and a 1950s up-do. There’s also a group of 20-somethings who we recognise from our arvo roll-up at the Marrickville bowlo. It’s oh-so Inner West.
When our friendly waiter Valli strides over to tell us the lay of the land she recommends the Negroni on tap, which she says they “have a big evil batch of”. This particular evil batch is made from gin and bittersweet Imbroglio, from Poor Tom’s at the back of the block, and Cocchi Americano, which gives it notes of citrus, spices and botanicals. It’s beautifully bittersweet and one of the most well-balanced Negronis I’ve ever had.
My plus one is also pleased with his spicy Ginger Philter, made from real ginger and brewed at Philter a few blocks away. There is also a global list of wines available by the glass or bottle, as well as a roster of top-shelf spirits that skews local.
The abundance of flame-grilled foods extends to an entrée of grilled baby octopus with a zingy, zucchini vinaigrette and puree of macadamia tarator. The Clarence River occie is served with instructions to dredge it through the creamy puddle, which we do, and ensure we scoop up every moreish element in one mouthful. The mains also demonstrate the fact the chefs know their way around a wood-fired grill, and we watch as they expertly wield their tongs around hunks of pork and beef, which were butchered and dry-aged on site.
The menu also highlights seasonal seafood and today’s market fish is blue-eye trevalla which is wood-fired and served in a vibrant carrot emulsion that shines a spotlight on Allison’s farm. The wee baby carrots are also a deeply appealing colour and round out the dish with a bit of crunch. The duck legs dazzle with a tongue-numbing coating of Szechuan spices offset by the cooling crunch of smashed cucumber dotted with black vinegar and flecked with sesame seeds. It’s a deeply comforting dish. While the quality of the leaves in the Stix Farm green salad is evident, the vinaigrette needs more olive oil to balance, as it’s almost too astringent to eat.
A house-made passionfruit and guava sorbet is next and that dialled-in attention to detail is again evident. When punctured with a fork, the tart slice holds up to reveal a layer of pink guava: it’s as textured and joyful as a Weiss Bar.
While fire forms the foundation of 20 Chapel, it’s the ridiculously convivial buzz in the dining room that makes it feel like the venue has been around for as long as the nearby bowlo.
Notch one up for the neighbourhood: you’ve now got another reason to visit the ’Ville.
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