If the walls of The Fortune of War pub could talk, they’d tell tales of sailors and soldiers from days of yore and of stock-brokers and software consultants from modern-day Sydney – all united by cold beer and good times. Now, nearly two centuries since it first opened, Sydney’s oldest continuously licensed pub has been having a big-deal makeover, to incorporate a revamped boutique hotel and new bistro, beneath its heritage-listed roof.
When Fiona and Steve ‘Speedy’ Speed took over the historic Fortune of War in 2013, they knew that this venue in The Rocks was in need of a bit of a glow-up. And after a lot of work, guests will soon be able to eat, drink, and stay under one roof. “It’s a place steeped in history, and now more people than ever will be able to enjoy it, whether they’re sitting at the historic hamper bar, relaxing in the bistro, enjoying the alfresco dining area, staying at the new boutique hotel accommodation, or enjoying all four,” says Steve.
Soon we'll be able to dine in Bistro 1828, named after the year the pub was first built. The dining destination has soaring ceilings, original windows, an open kitchen and a footprint that includes spaces that once housed The Push bar and two retail stores. Executive Chef Mark Williamson (formerly of Bistro Moncur) will be at the helm, dishing up elevated Aussie pub grub. Old-timers need not worry; classics like fish 'n' chips as well as beef and Guinness stew will still be on the menu – they’re just going to be more refined. What’s more, things will kick off early with daily brekkie served from 7am onwards.
Then there's the Russell Boutique Hotel upstairs, which the team putting the finishing touches before it opens in time for Vivid. Each of its 28 rooms are uniquely styled with Australiana antiques, and a few rooms offer glimpses of Sydney Harbour. True to its roots, the building, which once was a hospital, still holds a few quirky surprises. “None of the rooms are in sequential order,” laughs Steve. “I’ve been here 13 years and I still get lost – but that’s part of the charm.”
Of course, the original pub hasn’t been left behind. They haven't just given the place new carpet and a fresh lick of paint – they've also lovingly restored its beloved 100-year-old red oak hamper bar that takes centre stage. It will be the perfect place to pull up a stool while the bartender pulls you a pint – and to enjoy live music from Wednesday through to Sunday.
Yes, The Fortune of War will be looking glowy when you next visit, but its heart and soul remain the same.
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