I first visited Cafe Sydney with my mum a decade ago. I was 19 and about to embark on a six-week backpacking trip throughout India. I have the memory of a goldfish, though I remember the views. Perched atop Customs House in the heart of Circular Quay, Cafe Sydney boasts the kind of vistas that are usually reserved for waterside mansions. The Harbour Bridge is there, so too is the Opera House, as well as the blue water; the jewel in Sydney’s crown. And I remember the food, of course. In particular, a dish of tandoori roasted salmon that was so exquisite my mum and I talked about it at length.
I’ve visited Cafe Sydney a handful of times over the years – my brother’s 30th birthday lunch, a catch-up with friends – and have found it always delivers. The most recent time was a couple of weeks back to celebrate Cafe Sydney’s 25th birthday. For a hospitality venue to stay open (and busy) for more than two decades in Sydney is no small feat, and it’s a testament to the team – led by CEO Jan McKenzie, head sommelier Franck Gozé and executive chef Sarahjane Brown – that the restaurant is flourishing after all these years. It was fully packed on the chilly Wednesday evening that we visited. We sat outside on the rooftop terrace, each table lit up by a golden Dinosaur Design light; the heaters and blankets keeping guests warm. It felt romantic, like we could have been somewhere in Europe, and was filled with couples, friends and family members clinking glasses.
And guess what? The tandoori roasted salmon was still on the menu – our waiter told us it’s now a signature dish. You bet I ordered it. Thankfully, it lived up to the memory: succulent and juicy, served with mint yoghurt, spinach bhaji, spiced chickpea masala and a tumble of fresh herbs. We also enjoyed plump Abrolhos Islands scallops served with ’nduja and a bright lemon and herb pangrattato; Black Angus beef carpaccio with mustard aioli, horseradish and fresh rocket; silky pasta twirled with shavings of black truffle and pecorino; and grilled swordfish with a punchy cherry tomato salsa and prawn ravioli. It was all yum. And the wine, just like the time, flowed. I could have stayed much longer, if it weren’t a Wednesday (and if I wasn’t with my boss).
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To celebrate 25 years, Cafe Sydney is offering a special anniversary menu, including things like a spanner crab tart topped with salmon roe and a glass of Perrier-Jouët Champagne, available now until July 13. If you don’t have time for dinner, but feel like experiencing a taste of what’s on offer, the bar area always welcomes walk-ins. Come down on Wednesdays from 5-7pm for Petit Pour (their version of happy hour). Think: $2 freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters and $14 mini cocktails, including a Sticky Pickle made with Ketel One vodka, lime, pickled cucumber and honey. (More info here.)
So cheers to you, Cafe Sydney. We say bring on the next 25.