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I’m sitting in The Seidler Room with a glass of bittersweet, amber-hued Amaro della Donna Selvatica from Italy’s Piedmont region, and I don’t want to leave. For one, it’s absolutely bucketing outside – one of those wild, sideways-rain storms – and I left my umbrella at home. The plush-carpeted, mid-century-inspired part of The Wine Bar – an ode to Austrian-Australian architect Harry Seidler – feels intimate, classy and cosy.
But mostly it’s because the night has been so good that I don’t want it to end
It’s been a big time for 25 Martin Place. Last November, the building welcomed The International, a three-in-one mega venue by hospo group The Point, who are behind the Architectural Digest-worthy Shell House, the energetic Dolphin Hotel, Orange’s Hotel Canobolas and the can’t-wait-for-you-to-open Fort Denison venue. The mega establishment is located in the wings of Seidler’s iconic skyscraper, the heritage-listed MLC Centre, and right next door to his mushroom.
Walking up the stairs feels like an event in itself – like you’re heading to something special
I first see the outside courtyard, a 60-seat space filled with butter-yellow curved chairs, snow-white umbrellas and afterworkers. If the brief was balmy-afternoon sipping and snacking, they’ve nailed it.
A host welcomes us and takes us to our table at the inside-outside part of The Wine Bar, a terrace-like space overlooking Martin Place. It’s a stylish, open-air room, with flamingo-pink, caramel and panther-black tiles, terrazzo-topped tables and leather stools at the bar for walk-ins.
The Mango and Myrtle Spritz – made with Ketel One Vodka, lemon myrtle wine, mango nectar, mandarin and sparkling – tastes like an island holiday. It's not too sweet, with just the right amount of fizz. Hey, Aperol, watch your back. My date goes for the Blackcurrant Negroni. Usually, I dislike riffs on Negronis (white truffle Negroni, that’s you), but the fruit brings a lovely floral note in the centre while ending bitter, and I’m now a convert.
Group executive chef Daniel Corbett (ex-Topikós and Kingsleys) as well as head chef Courtney Blyde (ex-Baba’s Place and Cho Cho San) are behind the menu, made up of salumi, cheese, snacks, vegetables, pasta and larger dishes. I like that it’s concise, and that it sounds like everything you want to snack on with booze. And I also like that the most expensive dishes, the blue-eye cod and steak frites, both cost $34.
Speaking of cod, we start with golden, oval-shaped cod cakes served with a side of bottarga mayo. The mixture inside is smooth, well-seasoned and packs a good hit of chilli. The creamy mayo has loads of umami flavour, and a squeeze of lemon gives it a bright, acidic lift. I didn’t know fish cakes could be sexy, but here we are.
We keep the seafood theme going with thick-cut toast from A.P.Bakery, lathered in a creamy Olasagasti tuna spread, chopped up pickles and beautiful, jewel-coloured slices of raw tuna.
Acidity, fat, sweetness and salt? All there. What a hit
Head sommelier Jacqueline Turner (ex-Chin Chin and Margaret), as well as group food and beverage director Alex Kirkwood (ex-Aria), are behind the dynamic, ever-changing 250-bottle list, which spans from euphoric bubbles to flirtatious whites and robust reds. I’m a fan of a glass of 2021 Arfion Smokestack Lightning gewürztraminer, a zesty and aromatic skin-contact drop from the Yarra Valley. Also a fan of the $15 house rosé, red and white that’s available.
If you come here and only order one thing, better make it the signature pizzette designed by head dough slayer Sasa Smiljanic (ex-The Dolphin Hotel, Bella Brutta). Baked in an Italian oven, the mini pizza arrives with leopard-print charred blisters, a puffy, chewy crust and punchy toppings.
The clam pizzette, featuring a garlicky-white base, plump little clams and topped with what looks like a cup of melted butter, is my pick. Meanwhile, the king prawn number gets a salty kick from caramelised pork jowl, but it’s missing the chilli. Next time I’ll also ask for a bit of space between the snacks and pizzette.
My date is after a bold red, so we’re recommended a glass of 2023 Lauren Langfield Macvale merlot from South Australia’s Limestone Coast. It has a deep purple colour, soft tannins and tastes like dark berries.
It starts to rain, so we move to the rizz-exuding Seidler Room – my favourite place in The Wine Bar – and settle in for one last nightcap. You already know how it goes; I don’t reckon you’d want to leave here, either.
With exciting drops, home-run snacks and a stylish space, The Wine Bar is a polished and classy vino haven. And the best bit? You won’t forget the name in a hurry.
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