Though ‘quirky’, ironic kitsch and retro fit-outs are the flavour of the minute in the Sydney pub scene, the Pyrmont Point remains resolutely un-hip. It’s heritage is listed on the outside, but it sports a gentle, unassuming wood and muted palette on the inside. The cosy (or breezy in summer, as you like it) bistro out the back serves up satisfying, stylishly-presented food that ranges from staples like the steak sandwich ($18), Caesar salad ($15) or the parmagiana ($18), to super-fresh seafood options (as one would bloody well expect in a pub in the same ‘hood as the Sydney Fish Market). The beer selection in the front bar is made up of familiar brews, but at the time of review, the bistro was offering a few more interesting bevvies. Beside the usual major league brewers (Coopers, James Squire, Tooheys) there was a delicious easy-drinking Murray’s Moon Boy golden ale on tap, and a hoppy Rocks Brewing Co Convict lager. Upstairs, the ‘Karma’ bar offers a polished but slightly soulless ‘modern’ fitout. Perhaps swing by their taps for the larger craft-beer offering and wine list, and then head next-door to the cosier Margot’s Lounge, which sports a more heritage-appropriate retro fitout, and an open fireplace for winter warming, or head out onto the deck to catch some harbour breeze on a balmy evening.
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