Back in 2015, last orders were called at Hugos Lounge: a notoriously riotous restaurant-turned-nightclub in Kings Cross’s once thriving late-night precinct. Hugos was one of the last casualties of the lockout laws, which sounded the death bell for a string of venues that used to make the Cross Sydney’s go-to after dark destination. This week, the distinctive indoor-outdoor venue has opened its doors again. The name, menu and aesthetic are different, but the format is the same: a sexy one-stop-shop for open-air drinks, dinner and a late-night dance. It’s a bold vision, and it’s one that the city is begging for.
If anyone could pull off the task of bringing to life an on-point restaurant-turned-nightclub in the Harbour City, Andrew Becher would be one of them. The Sydney-based restaurateur is the man behind some of Sydney’s very best restaurants (Armorica, Parlar and Franca), and Pelicano is the latest addition to his stable. While the focus at the other three Rivage Group restaurants is very much on the sit-down experience (Armorica was voted Best Fine Dining Restaurant in the Time Out Sydney Food and Drink Awards 2023), Pelicano is shooting for something more. The food is great, yes, and the drinks are excellent, but Pelicano – a reprised version of the now-closed Double Bay restaurant of the same name – is a place you come for more than just dinner.
Up a wide stone staircase set a few streets back from the beating heart of Kings Cross, the sprawling space is abundantly beautiful – plush blue velvet booths are backed by darkened mirror panels, and striking colourful artwork from Becher’s personal collection lines the walls. Under a striped Mediterranean-style awning, cute pink seats overlook the terrace – the perfect spot for a Limoncello-spiked spritz and a few plates of fritto misto and vitello tonnato on toast.
Curated by Executive Chef Jose Saulog (who’s been leading the kitchens at Franca, Parlar and Armorica for over five years), the menu is Italian-leaning and wonderfully executed. Hugos was known for its pizza, but we’d suggest going all out on the bistecca delmonico – just make sure you’re not too full for a post-tiramisu dance.
Pelicano’s mission is an ambitious one, but it’s a format that could change Sydney’s Saturday nights for the better. It’s too soon to say whether they can pull it off, but we’re delighted that they’re giving it a shot.
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