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It’s just after 9pm on a Monday and three thoughts come to mind. First, Joji shimmers as much as the jewellery found below in the Cartier flagship store. Second, the DJ’s seamless transitions from funky house to disco beats are on point. And third: wow, there’s a line of people waiting to get a seat inside the city’s newest rooftop bar. On a school night. I suddenly feel an urge to tell everyone who thinks Sydney’s nightlife is dead that they couldn’t be more wrong.
Joji opened in the second half of 2024 at 388 George Street, on level five. It’s the first foray into the bar world for the Esca Group, though their CV is strong, with Middle Eastern, Martin Place-diner Aalia, pretty-and-pink Nour, modern Japanese spot Ito and pan-Asian restaurant Lilymu under their wings.
The inside is polished and glamorous, with warm lighting, earthy tones, a shiny silver DJ station, sleek wooden bar and plush curved booths. There’s indoor seating and a wraparound terrace, and on this warm evening, I reckon that’s the ticket. It’s also apparent that Gucci may be out of stock because every bag in Sydney is here.
The cocktail menu draws from the Japanese principles of simplicity, imperfection and creativity. My pick is the Geisha, made with fresh yuzu gin, nashi pear, passion fruit, ginger and citrus, which comes with a white foam and a blood-red rose petal. The grid-worthy drink has floral notes and there’s a beautiful subtle sweetness from the passionfruit. At $28, it’s also on the pricier end of the scale, but hey, we are on top of Cartier.
My date’s Midori Sour is a radioactive lime green colour and tastes like a grown-up version of my youth. It comes with a small rockmelon ball, and the added citrus tempers the sweetness. Elsewhere, you’ll find Japanese beers, a strong selection of sake, Japanese, Scottish and American whiskey, and a mostly European vino list, with a couple of Aus and NZ drops too.
It’s the beginning of golden hour, that magical time of day when the sun wraps the city in its soft, warm blanket, and all the surrounding buildings shine.
It’s my favourite time of day, and sitting here makes me fall in love with the city once again
Chef Paul Farag is behind Joji’s Japanese-inspired, snackable menu, which is split into three sections: raw, not raw and robata. You could begin with Sydney rock oysters spritzed with a sudachi dressing, or a plate of fresh sashimi. We go for spicy raw tuna placed on a wasabi leaf that looks like the wings of a butterfly. Togarashi and small white puffs add crunch, and there’s a hint of chilli.
The flavour and wow-factor are dialled up with a scallop and bug sando, which arrives cut into four and assembled like a Rubik's Cube. Two slices of crustless white bread encase the sweet meat, fried on both sides until golden and crisp. A spicy kimchi mayo adds moisture and a touch of sweetness, while shredded cabbage injects a burst of freshness.
Fried curry bread is next to land on our table. We tear it open, and curry sauce flows out like lava. It tastes just like a katsu curry, but in bread form. All I need now is a chilled Asahi.
Robata-grilled eggplant has a velvety texture, its flavour intensified by a dark and rich eggplant shoyu; while a chubby prawn on a lettuce leaf is paired with a bonito cream and a zippy pickled ginger for a Japanese spin on a prawn cocktail. A salad of green leaves mixed with creamy avocado in a tangy citrus dressing is the perfect fodder to a bowl of karaage chicken, which is juicy but not crunchy, thanks to being finished in a burnt butter, but delicious nonetheless.
I finish with the Bamboo cocktail, a mix of Orendain Blanco tequila, dry vermouth and tomato. Our waitress says it’s savoury, but the one I get is sweet and tastes like a Charlie Chaplin, thanks to apricot liqueur. I sit back once again and drink it up, as well as those views.
With its golden glow and electric energy, elegant layered cocktails, and fun, umami-powered snacks, there’s a lot to love about Joji
Add in top-notch city views and a DJ spinning groovy tunes, and you’ve got yourself one hot new drinking den. Oh, and it’s open until 2am most nights of the week.
Bring your friend who says there’s nothing fun going on anymore, and order the scallop and bug sando. And if you’re lucky enough to own a Gucci – a bag, wallet, shoes, whatever – better bring that too.
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