Just another Surry Hills wine bar, this ain’t. Sure, Bar Suze - the Scandinavian inspired, late night snack bar on Foveaux Street - serves up plenty of wines by the glass with plenty of small plate options. But what sets it apart from what you might think of as a wine bar is that it’s fun. Don’t get us wrong, settling into an intimate corner, whispering to a jazz soundtrack while quaffing an obscure Burgundy can be great. In fact, it can be wonderful. But it can also turn into a rather ostentatious, and dare we say, pretentious affair from time to time. The fact the Suze can deliver the goods while also bringing the fun is what makes this venue such a hit. Where there are sleek granite top bars, there’s a bop by Bruce Springsteen in the air. While you’re sitting in a plush, black, high backed booth, you’ve got a view of the mirror ball being hand spun by an excited chef between orders.
That sense of play is surely built on a foundation of friendship. Bar Suze is the brainchild of long-time hospitality veterans and long-time buddies Gregory Bampton, Phil Stenvall and Brenton Hassan. Between them, the three have graced the kitchens and bars of Sydney favourites ACME, Pinbone, Johnny Fishbone and Vini (as well as a stage or two behind the drums - little wonder the soundtrack is so good).
Fun and games aside, the food is very, very serious. The menu is inspired by Stenvall’s Swedish background, and meets at the intersection of Scandinavia’s and Australia’s love of seafood. Crudo of Kingfish is dressed with burnt butter, pink peppercorns and pickled rhubarb; river trout is lightly smoked, served with a creamy prosecco sauce and sweet blanched broad beans; and beef tartare is seasoned with lumpfish caviar in place of the usual egg yolk, tiny umami bombs intermingled with rich wagyu mince. To finish off, don’t go past the coconut creme caramel. It’s impossibly smooth and melts on your tongue without a hint of curdle, that common affliction of this fickle dessert. The sweetness of the caramel is offset with cool coffee granita which pools invitingly on the plate.
Over on the drinks list you’ll find an all-star cast of Australian, French and Italian minimal intervention wines, all hand-picked by Bampton, with loads of by the glass options. Things stay left of field with farmhouse ales, sour beers and organic spirits and aperitifs.
Bucking the typical expectations in Sydney, Bar Suze is open late – it’s part of the welcoming atmosphere the three friends strive for. If you wander in at 11pm, you’ll still have access to the full menu which makes this the perfect spot to stay for hours or a great place to kick on to for a late-night bite. Just follow the disco ball.