The 11 best things to do in Eastbourne

When three of the Pollard sisters started baking sourdough loaves in their parents’ garage in 2019 they didn’t expect their micro-bakery to be quite so popular. With Covid came the crowds, helping the trio launch their own coffee shop and bakery, To the Rise. This is no ordinary bread, but seriously creative pastries – think maple and bacon twists, chai-glazed buns and tahini and halva brownies. Stock up on carbs before a hike in the Downs.

The bright colours of Lothar Gotz’s geometric mural – Dance Diagonal – which covers the outside of the Towner Eastbourne sets the scene for  what’s inside: some of the UK’s most impressive contemporary art installations. Until 14 April 2024 the free-to-enter gallery will proudly host the Turner Prize, one of the best known prizes for the visual arts, with high-ceilinged rooms showcasing the work of Jesse Darling, Ghislaine Leung and more. Nearby, Volt is a gallery featuring exhibitions of emerging and underrepresented East Sussex artists.

You could lose a day in this crazy cavern of a secondhand bookshop which was set up by Camilla in 1985. Camilla's stocks everything – and we mean everything – from kids classics like Enid Blyton to crime thrillers and recipe books to niche subjects like rope tying, shipwrecks, knitting, and retro additions titled ‘Recent Advances in Fruit Juice Production’. Books are stacked ceiling high and often three piles deep – breathe in and carefully shuffle between them.

If you don’t visit for the art then visit for the food: Scandi-inspired Light restaurant, on the second floor of the Towner, is one of the most delicious lunch spots in East Sussex. The vegetarian-friendly menu changes once a month, but if you’re lucky you’ll catch the small plate of roasted cauliflower with kimchi and pickled raisins. The sourdough with butter and tarragon oil is a permanent fixture on the menu for good reason.

Pounding the promenade is a seaside staple and there are plenty of pit stops along Eastbourne’s seafront. Lose your two 2ps in the glitzy gold and royal blue pier and get a scoop of ice cream at Gelato Famoso (and if you’re really into ice cream, compare it with a scoop at Gianni’s on Terminus road). Along the way you’ll pass the bandstand, which proudly claims to be the earth’s busiest thanks to its calendar of events. At the far end, Holywell Beach is a great spot for a dip or a splash around in a rock pool. 

If sauntering the seafront doesn’t cut it then a walk along the South Downs will. You’re aiming for Beachy Head – the highest chalk sea cliff in Britain, no less. It’s 530ft of sheer beauty and dramatic lighthouse views, reached by a series of easy to fairly challenging inclines. Spot seals, take in the sunset and if it’s a sunny summer’s day then cool off with a swim on the sandy shores of Birling Gap. 

Francois, a South Street shop that’s home to vintage postcards, annuals, football brochures and stamps, is a collector’s dream (it also doesn't have a website). If you’re looking for something more aesthetically pleasing then you’ll find it at All Things Analogue, where the world’s best stationary is meticulously displayed for your viewing – and purchasing – pleasure. A rainbow array of pens are colour coordinated on the shelves, while rubbers, washi tape and notebooks are neatly laid out. If you love a charity shop rummage, you’ll find them around here.

Temporarily closed, reopening March 2024

Don’t dismiss this as one for the under 10s. Kids and big kids love the EMSR Adventure Park, where tiny ride-on locomotives wind their way around through pretty country gardens. There’s a maze, nature walk and adventure playground (now that part is just for kids) and ten pint-sized locomotives to view. Families drive for miles just to get their steam train fix.

A night out in Eastbourne is about low-key drinks and great food. Start at Level’s, a bottle shop and craft beer tasting room where 70s vinyls line the wall. You’ll have your pick of evening meals: go casual and cosy at Skylark, which doubles as a cafe during the day, or feast on South Indian dosa, curries and biryani from Malayalam. For something fancier, try Cru – the small plate dining style is handy after a day of eating your way round town.

Eastbourne isn’t short on hotels, but some can feel more coach tour than cool. Port Hotel has revived the local hotel scene: with its striking matt black facade, which you’ll spot from half way down the promenade, you know it’s vying for a different crowd. Inside the townhouse, soft pink walls are paired with the off-black matt woodwork of the huge bay windows. Concrete sinks, terrazzo tiles and rain showers up the luxe touches. Souvenir searching? Framed art work in the reception area is available to buy for really reasonable prices.