17 things to do in St Ives

Head for the harbour – the beating heart of St Ives for centuries. Sheltered by a pier at both ends, the water is cross-hatched by colourful boats from the crack of dawn. Pick up a coffee from The Pier Coffee Bar by Smeaton’s Pier and watch the fishermen haul in their catch.

Porthmeor Beach is a haven for surfers and bodyboarders. Learn the ropes at St Ives Surf School, or just paddle in the shallows. Rather not get wet? The wide beach is as chilled as they come – as are the drinks served on the Beach Café’s terrace.

Anchor yourself at Porthminster Café for net-fresh seafood and a side order of sea views. It’s right on the sand of Porthminster Beach. Seafood not your thing? Grab a burger from Blas Burgerworks tucked away in The Warren – you’ll struggle to find a bad review.

For a pint with a view, try The Sloop Inn on the harbourfront. Sit outside and drink every time an unsuspecting tourist loses their lunch to a seagull. For real ale, it’s got to be The Castle Inn on Fore Street. Wherever you’re drinking, get a view of the ocean – the sunsets here are legendary.

Fore Street lines up shops and galleries like they’re going out of fashion. Try Porthminster Gallery for art, although individual artists’ studios are your best bet for original pieces at knock-down prices. The excellent Leach Pottery museum, gallery, studio and shop has been excelling in the pottery world since 1920, a must for pottery experts and amateurs alike. 

Geevor was a working mine for over 80 years, employing some 400 at its peak, before its closure in 1990 after the crash in tin prices had rendered the huge clifftop operation economically unfeasible. Following a multi-million-pound preservation programme, which included the addition of the interactive Hard Rock Museum, the mine was brought back to life as a visitor attraction. The site has been sensitively adapted, leaving the workings of the mine wonderfully intact – everything from the hulking machines of the compressor house and the ore processing mill down to the helmets and paperwork of the employees remains in place. Visits culminate with an underground tour of the tunnels, conducted by ex-miners – an experience that is as emotive as it is claustrophobic.

St Ives is a haven of relaxation, but there are plenty of ways to take in the scenery while getting a bit of exercise. The Cornish Way cycle track is very manageable and very flat, making it a marvellous way to while away the day in this part of the world. The route runs from Penzance to Marazion (with access to St Michael’s Mount).

Make it to Tate St Ives. The soft-focus summer light in this part of Cornwall draws artists from far and wide, and the newly-extended gallery features the cream of the crop under one roof. Wander through the Tate’s dreamy Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden – you’ll save money with a combined ticket. 

When you’ve soaked up St Ives’s artistic vibes, find your own inspiration inland at Treehouse on the Lake. This rural high-rise – a treehouse 20 feet above the forest floor – is a lush place to call home for a day or two. Cleanse yourself of your London existence by wandering through woodland, stargazing or listening to the sounds of the forest from your timber terrace. The treetop hideaway might even inspire you to make your own art. But if your creative endeavours don’t go to plan, you can always feast at the on-site restaurant or laze in the heated pool and spa instead. Looking for something a little more modern? When it comes to modern high design, Salt House is unrivalled in these parts. Owned by graphic designers Alan and Sharon Spencer, this large rental occupies a modernist wood-clad cube of a house in Carbis Bay, with two pristine white rooms of very generous proportions and serious design credentials.