We dived with hundreds of sharks at Singapore’s S.E.A. Aquarium – here’s what it was like

The AWARE Shark Conservation Specialty course is, first and foremost, a course. This means a mandatory classroom session before the ‘fun’ bit of diving. With instructors Jean and Ferdy, we go through a fascinating lesson on shark biology and behaviour, the threats they face in the wild, and what’s being done to save them. We walk away with some cool facts (like how spiny dogfish sharks gestate for up to 24 months!) and myths debunked (sharks do not, in fact, hunt humans – not even the notorious Great White shark). 

A good portion of the class covers sharks' importance to marine ecosystems. These apex predators pick off the weak and sick, keeping prey populations healthy and in balance. Without them, the larger predatory fish they feed on would multiply unchecked, depleting populations of smaller, algae-eating fish and causing coral reefs to become choked by uncontrolled algae blooms.

The bad news is that shark (and ray) populations have declined dramatically (nearly three-quarters) in the last 50 years. Human activity is largely to blame. Sharks die as by-catch from commercial fishing or are targeted to feed a market hungry for shark fins, liver oil, and cartilage. Jean shows us sobering images—thousands of shark fins on a single boat and shark bodies thrown into the sea after their fins are cut off. 

The aim, of course, is not to depress. The course ends on a somewhat positive and productive note, covering inspiring conservation efforts worldwide and ways that we, as individuals, can help to protect sharks. Sharing knowledge, debunking harmful myths, and choosing seafood products that carry the Marine Stewardship Council label are just some things we resolve to do. 

Then comes the thrilling part—diving in the Shark Seas Habitat. After we change into wetsuits and settle our dive gear (all provided), Jean and Ferdy take us to a viewing point to coo over baby sharks in their nursery. Our instructors give the first dive briefing with baby scalloped hammerheads wriggling around in the aquarium behind them – if it’s a sneaky tactic to calm our nerves, then it certainly works. 

The entry into the Shark Seas Habitat is calm, almost leisurely. Usual boat dives involve some scrambling to gear up – on a rocking boat, no less – and a great splash into the waves via a backroll or giant stride. At the S.E.A. Aquarium, we simply step down a metal ladder and glide backwards into the calm, flat water. After a final check, we deflate our buoyancy devices and descend into the deep.

The feeling of slipping into that underwater world and finding yourself surrounded by dozens of sharks is surreal. As we descend to the bottom of the Shark Seas Habitat, sharks of every size swim lazily around. The water is crystal clear and there is zero current – perfect diving conditions. Before I can properly take it in, my mask starts flooding with water, and Ferdy and I have to spend some time kneeling at the bottom to fix the issue. 

A panicky diver to start with, I struggle to calm my breathing throughout this little situation. That’s when I spot a Wobbegong shark, an odd-looking carpet shark, resting quietly on the habitat floor just an arm’s length from us. I suddenly feel utterly relaxed – and excited. That’s a Wobbegong shark just a metre away from me!

The awesomeness of it all begins to hit. We start properly diving around the perimeter of the habitat, making sure to move calmly and keep our hands in (lest the sharks mistake us for the S.E.A. Aquarium divers holding their food out). Immediately, the most intimidating shark in the tank – a massive sand tiger shark with protruding teeth, affectionately called Big Mama by the crew – makes a few passes above us to inspect the new humans. We exchange wide-eyed looks as her shadow passes over us. 

There are 12 species of sharks within the Shark Seas Habitat, but a couple sticks out in our minds. We spot another Wobeggong shark resting in another corner of the aquarium, endangered scalloped hammerhead sharks cruising around with their characteristic dopey look, and timid blacktip reef sharks. I’m taken aback by the long and slim tawny nurse sharks, which look huge as they cuddle together in large groups in the corner of the habitat. 

We emerge from the Shark Seas Habitat and immediately start chattering excitedly about the experience. But there’s still more to go, because we have a second dive in S.E.A. Aquarium’s famous Open Ocean Habitat. 

This habitat is much bigger than the Shark Seas Habitat—it holds enough water to fill seven Olympic-sized pools, with overhangs and arches we can swim over and under. It has over 40,000 marine animals across 120 species, including sharks. Leopard whip rays chill on the bottom, grouper fish swim in our faces, and sharks hide in small caves. Jean picks up a shark egg, which appears as a flat and hardy pouch, and we pass it around to inspect it.

We’re here to see more sharks, but alas, it’s the manta rays that steal the show. Known as Mika, Mako, and Manja, these awesome trio know they’re beautiful – the moment we enter the Open Ocean Habitat, they start flying through the aquarium in a synchronised display. While we take a rest stop over the Ocean Dome, they soar right over our heads, giving us (and the S.E.A. Aquarium guests on the other side of the acrylic) something to gasp over. 

Before we know it, the experience is over, and we ascend back to land for a debrief. In a couple of days, we’ll receive a certificate marking us as AWARE Shark Conservation Specialty divers, which counts towards an advanced diving certification. Looking back, nothing can beat diving out in the open ocean, with its endlessly unique topography, vibrant reefs, and a surprise sighting around every corner. But that's hardly the point of the AWARE Shark Conservation Specialty course, which provides a singular experience of diving with hundreds of sharks of varied species, couched in a powerful message to protect this beautiful and oft-misunderstood keystone species. 

The AWARE Shark Conservation Specialty course at S.E.A. Aquarium is now available for booking here. The eight-hour course costs $488 per person, including classroom time, two dives, and all equipment. Participants must be 12 years and above and