The ultimate guide to Tiong Bahru

This hawker-esque yakitori bar serves up mee pok by heritage hawker Hua Bee by day and dressed up Japanese dishes and tipples at night. As befitting of its hipster modus operandi, evening diners must enter through a metal door in the back. The décor of course ticks all the cool grungy boxes – Hua Bee’s traditional marble and wood kopitiam tables and old utilitarian wall tiles are kept alongside distressed paintwork, intentional rust, unfinished wood and burnished copper.

Just when you thought Tiong Bahru couldn’t possibly fit in another indie café, along comes Flock Café – a family-run affair with more of the minimalist, industrial-like décor du jour. It offers up an all-day breakfast menu that’s a nice balance of sweet and the savoury – there’s the braised pork cheek with gruyère cheese ($11.90) and prawn avocado ($12.90), as well as a variety of salads (all $8.90). Then round off your meal with the orange bundt cake ($5) or the chocolate cake ($6), accompanied by the quintessential cuppa: espressos for $3.50, plus lattes, cappuccinos and flat whites for $4.80.

Further away from Tiong Bahru's main cafe district, Starter Lab at Havelock Road is one of the Tiong Bahru's coolest new kids on the block. If an American-style sourdough is what you're looking for, you're in luck. Founder Emerson Manibo hand-carried his wholewheat starter and rye starter from his OG cafe of the same name in Canggu, with it quickly evolving into something uniquely Singaporean Starter Lab is now known for. 

Besides its loaves of freshly baked sourdough, its sandwiches here is the main draw – with favourites such as Meaty Mushroom ($16), a sandwich served with spinach and ricotta on country wholewheat and the Roasted Cauliflower ($15). 

Platters of pastries and cakes tempt your taste buds as you enter Plain Vanilla Bakery, but resist that because you’re here for one purpose: to capture those cupcakes, squash them between your teeth, reduce them to a sticky, gooey clump. Choose from a dozen flavours ($3.90 each): chocolate hazelnut is a bold Nutella-fuelled prize crowned with more nuts, red velvet is made with Valrhona chocolate and capped with a thick cream cheese frosting, and the cookies and cream are a chocolatey affair with smashed Oreos weaved into its frosting. You’ll want to collect ’em all, we promise.

This boulangerie – which first opened its flagship store at it's eponymous neighbourhood serves french artisanal breads, tarts and coffee at three locations around town. Savoury options like the Squid Ink Sandwich ($8.50) and Ham and Melted Cheese on Focaccia ($8) are great for satisfying the peckish while sweet options like the ever-popular Almond Croissant ($3.20) and the sinful Kouign-Amann ($3.50) are not-to-be-missed especially when bought fresh off the oven.

Tiann's tries its best to be that gluten-free, paleo-friendly and organic (as much as possible) bakery. They stick to good old fashioned bakes like banana bread ($4.50/per slice, $43/whole loaf) that also comes vegan if you preorder two days in advance ($53/whole loaf). Also on the menu are chocolate hazelnut cake ($8.80/per slice, $68/whole cake) and ice cream made in-house with raw ingredients ($4.80/per cup, $23/whole tub). They do savoury and hot food too, like pies, toasties and waffles ($9.80-$16) and have reasonably priced coffee ($3.50-$6).

Located in a quiet corner of the hip Tiong Bahru precinct (in a row of shops at Link Hotel) is Canjob Taproom store. The snack bar and liquor store offers rotating craft beers on tap that you're able to can up for takeaway at affordable prices. Draft craft beers start from $9 for a Lager-Pale from Garage Project to $15 for Strawberry Gum Stout from Beerfarm and if you're feeling peckish, tuck into their delicious bratwurst hotdogs ($8), meat pies ($7), or spam fries ($8).

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Nestled on the rooftop of Link Hotel is this hugely underrated rooftop bar, boasting Chinese-inspired decor and views to match. Have a beer or house pour under the stars at the bar's Al Fresco deck, which allows you to soak in the full city atmosphere.

Here to share the love for music is Ronggeng Records, a snug retreat adorned with an array of vinyl records and cassette tapes, floor to ceiling walls plastered with music posters and everything in between. You’ll be able to find a diverse collection of records that encompass a wide spectrum of genres, ranging from rock and roll to elusive Southeast Asian collectives, cherished Mandarin classics, and more.

Hidden beyond an unassuming doorway lies a vibrant enclave filled with captivating illustrations by artist Yeni. Inspired by her globetrotting adventures and the intriguing souvenir stores she has encountered along the way, Yeni has boldly established her very own space in the heart of Tiong Bahru. This nook pays homage to Singapore's magnetic charm, brilliantly reimagined through her art using a burst of vivid colours. Think quirky magnets, striking posters, tea towels, and other unique finds. 

Whether you're a dedicated Francophile or have a liking for the language of love, get stuck in the books at The French Bookstore. As its name suggests, this specialty store carries French books – pre-loved and hot off the press – in a variety of genres for both adults and children. The cosy Tiong Bahru bookstore also offers stationery, vintage wares and art.

Tan Boon Liat might look like an old decrepit building, but it is actually a home decorator's mecca. There are over 33 shops selling furniture, home decor, and everything else you need to create the perfect home. All-time favourite stores are The Past Perfect Collection (#11-05), Singapore Trading Post (#07-01), Deer Industries (#07-05), and Soul & Tables (#02-01/03)

Be prepared to spend a whole day exploring all the shops in this building... and ending up buying a sofa, dining table or at least a rug from the experience.

Nana & Bird began as a pop-up shop in Georgina Koh’s home in Tiong Bahru, branched out to an online boutique and recently landed itself on permanent grounds. Koh, together with classmate and co-owner Tan Chiewling, came up with the shop name based on nicknames they were given in junior college:

‘Nana is short for Georgina – friends got tired with my long English name – and bird is because Chiewling is extremely chirpy and loud,’ Koh says. Stepping up to the door, Nana & Bird gives off that rare hole-in-the-wall charm. Iron bars still protect the windows and the original tiled floor is intact. Beaded necklaces, feather earrings, tote bags and polka-dot blouses are all on display. The girls encourage people to sit down for a cuppa to discuss fashion. Their philosophy? ‘Sell what we love’.

After all these years, Tiong Bahru still remains to be the hippest neighbourhood in town. Home to a cluster of cool cafes and eateries like Forty Hands, Tiong Bahru Bakery, Plain Vanilla and more, you can also find interesting stores like BooksActually, Woods In The Books and Cat Socrates. Like its other branch in Joo Chiat, you can find all kinds of trinkets in the store like locally made scented candles, novelty books, pretty stationery, Hawaiian shirts and earrings from regional designers and unique local souvenirs that are way more interesting than a keychain of the Merlion. 

This cosy spa is housed in shipping containers, making the latest addition to Tiong Bahru. While exteriors scream "industrial chic", step inside and you'll find a comforting palette of browns and burgundies offset by Thai silk pillows and wall decals of flowers and birds.

Two out of four treatment rooms, plus the hot tub in the back for bath therapies like The Milky Way ($55 for 30min) and Heaven and Herb ($55 for 30 min), are for duos. Massage styles range from a classic Thai or Balinese to the Tuina and modern Japanese Shiatsu.

If pages full of words bore you, check out this addition to the local literary scene that specialises in picture books. Woods in the Books offers a feast of pictorial treasures, including works by award-winning French cartoonist Jean-Jacques Sempé – known simply as Sempé – plus quirky graphic novels, the popular 1980s Malaysian series Lat, pop-up versions of The Little Prince, and of course, classic children’s books like Goodnight Moon and Where the Wild Things Are.

Contemporary art gallery Hatch Art Project, which opened in 2018 on the first floor of Asia Square Tower 1 has injected some life (and colour) in the CBD since its inception. Now, it's moved into the hip hood of Tiong Bahru, perfect for art collectors hoping to snatch the latest art pieces. 

For all your gourmet needs at affordable prices, Foodie Market Place is your destination. Its shelves are stocked with air-flown chilli beef & lamb, frozen meats and seafood, cheeses, canned products, ice creams and frozen desserts. Whether you're shopping for your next barbecue party or doing your grocery run for the week, take a stroll to the edge of Tiong Bahru.