In the lush enclave of Robertson Quay lies a modern Lebanese restaurant with one mission and one mission only – to transport your tastebuds to the historical city of Beirut. And with the godfather of modern Lebanese cuisine chef Greg Malouf at the helm, expect a gastronomic experience that is boldly unique without straying far from its roots. Even the dazzling interiors and ever-evolving playlists are designed to mimic the sights and sounds of the energetic souks of Beirut.
Freshness is key in Lebanese cuisine and Malouf masterfully balances authenticity with the contemporary using foundational ingredients – sumac, Aleppo pepper, pomegranate molasses and rose water – sourced from the souks in Beirut. He also procures fresh herbs and meats from Australia. Coupled with the practice of cooking from scratch and the warm Lebanese hospitality, the restaurant whips up delicious food that is seemingly touched with a mother's love – after all, Ummi also means mother in Arabic.
Opening each meal is a repertoire of mezzes, both cold and hot. The headlining dish is none other than the signature hummus (from $24) which arrives ultra velvety. It is paired with a citrusy French baby lentil salad with pickled radish and freshly baked pita. For more grazing options, consider dabbling in the likes of homemade shankleesh cheese that comes as part of Malouf's mezze platter ($32), house-cured spiced salmon bastourma ($32), crunchy hazelnut falafel ($24), and spicy lemon-glazed lamb makanek sausages ($28).
However, it was the eggplant fatteh ($32) that delivered ultimate indulgence. The comforting vegetarian classic arrives as a layered yoghurt-based dip featuring plenty of flavours and textures: melt-in-your-mouth fried eggplants, soft chickpeas, crispy cracked wheat, sweet pine nuts and vibrant pops of pomegranate.
If you’re in good company of meat-loving folks, the Butcher’s Mix Grill ($68) guarantees a lavish spread. Grilled over charcoal for a smoky char, these meats include juicy lamb cutlets, lamb kaftas, lamb kababs and chicken shish tawouk along with smoke-kissed vegetables. Otherwise, the hearty Saayadiya ($48) will also satisfy with pan-fried fresh sea bass on a bed of aromatic onion rice redolent of cinnamon, cumin and coriander.
Save space for desserts though. The classic baked kunefe ($24) is jazzed up with layers of Lebanese sweet cheese, tart apricot confit, pistachios and a well-adjusted rose syrup that isn’t excessively sweet. Those looking to imbibe are treated to a range of Lebanese-inspired tipples ($26) along with some Lebanese winemakers that go by the glass (from $20).