In just a matter of weeks after opening, this hole-in-the-wall along Tras Street racked up over 700 reviews on Google with a gobsmacking rating of 4.9 stars. Granted, leaving a note gets you a free bowl of curry here, but comments suggest there’s reason to believe this restaurant hailing from Busan offers something a cut above the average tonkatsu joint.
We walk in early at 11am on a Monday morning to a half-full restaurant. A smart move, as by noon, tables are fully packed. In Korea, 300 reservations across Tonshou’s four outlets are made within five minutes each day once slots are open for booking. You won’t face that problem here, since the Singapore store has a strict no-reservations policy.
Counter seats are the only option, and the best ones are right up front where the smoking charcoal grill is. Tonshou dubs itself as the world’s first charcoal-grilled pork cutlet restaurant, and its secret to success is a fastidious four-step cooking process that’s supposed to yield the ideal tonkatsu slice – crisp and succulent, with a pale pink centre. This involves low and high-temperature cooking, resting, and finishing off on the charcoal grill.
If it’s your first time here, the array of tonkatsu sets on the menu can be slightly dizzying. The majority feature premium white pork from Australia, but there’s also a selection of Kurobuta (black pork) from Hokkaido, Japan.
To start, chilled corn potage – gritty, rich, and appetising – is served. Each set also comes with cabbage salad and kimchi, and the miso soup deserves a nod, seeing how it’s loaded with nutritious ingredients like daikon, carrots, onion, and even pork belly. The rice is a small, manageable portion, leaving the spotlight to shine on the tonkatsu.
The hire katsu ($28) is probably the most recognisable item on the menu, and also our favourite. It features panko-breaded pork tenderloin rounds with a gorgeous pink hue. Those who might be squeamish, fret not, as this colour is a result of a natural myoglobin reaction – the protein found in pork muscle – and the meat is completely safe to eat.
The signature golden-brown crust of tonkatsu is notoriously hard to achieve, but you’ll find Tonshou’s version to be crunchy and surprisingly light, without much grease. The batter gives way to tender chunks of meat that retain their moisture, thanks to low-temperature frying. It’s as close to perfect as tonkatsu can get, though if we were to nitpick, the charcoal grilling doesn’t seem to impart any distinct flavour to the pork.
You’ll also notice a neat line of condiments in front of you. Part of the fun of eating here is unlocking endless pairings and ways to enjoy your tonkatsu. A simple squeeze of lemon followed by a dab of Maldon sea salt gently enhances the original flavours of the pork, and is our go-to pairing. But a more flavour-packed combination would be the house tonkatsu sauce with wasabi or a touch of lemon kosho.
Curious as to how the Japanese black pork will fare, we also order the Hokkaido Kurobuta rosu katsu (pork loin, $32), only to find it slightly tougher than the tenderloin, with stringy bits of tissue making it hard to chew. For something different from the usual tonkatsu meal, Tonshou also offers katsu and ebi sando sets. Our choice is the ebi sando ($24), where succulent battered shrimp are encased in fluffy bread slices and paired with tartare sauce on the side.
If you’re going for variety, the katsu combo set ($32) features a trio of pork loin, tenderloin, and shrimp. Though all things considered, it’s still the hire katsu (tenderloin) set that’s the most value-for-money in our books, and the one dish we’ll be making a return trip for.
Time Out Singapore reviews anonymously and pays for all meals. Read our restaurant review policy here. What the stars mean:
★ Poor ★ ★ Promising ★★★ Good ★★★★ Very good ★★★★★ Exceptional