Step into this sleek, industrial-chic space to experience what a hot take on Indian cooking tastes like. The best seats in the house are those at the counter, right in front of the flickering red embers from the Yarra woodfire. And fanning the flames in the kitchen is three Michelin-starred chef Tristin Farmer.
The Revolver journey is best experienced through the luxurious eight-course dinner Experience menu ($229) that takes you through the restaurant’s flame-kissed star dishes. You’ll be treated to the likes of N25 caviar; Scottish scallop with Chettinad pepper and butter garlic; black cod with mango and habanero sauce; Tajima striploin with Kashmir sauce, and much more.
A tandoor oven – another of the kitchen’s pride – is also used to give an alluring char to the dishes. It’s also here where the joint’s iconic Kulchette or flatbreads are made. The Kulchette is a Revolver invention, and it draws inspiration from a variety of sources like the traditional Indian kulcha, the classic Turkish pide, and even the Napoli pizza.
Not a big eater? We promise that even the restaurant’s modest lunch Discovery menu ($99) is more than enough to satiate.
Things start with a refined take on the traditional palak paneer, featuring earthy spinach mash, a light cottage cheese that isn’t cloying, and topped with shishito pepper for a touch of spice. Up next is our favourite dish, the ultra tender black cod (also on the dinner menu). It’s fired up in the tandoor oven for an intense char, and though the sauce comes with a spice warning from the chef, it was pleasant and manageable, with a hint of sweetness to lift the dish. The guinea fowl that comes after is a tad tough and lacks a depth of flavour despite having been dry-aged for seven to 14 days; it’s the spicy green mango shreds and accompanying vindaloo sauce that really elevate the dish.
The Kulchette is the final act on the lunch menu before the desserts are rolled out. The freshly-made flatbreads come out hot and toasty, with beautifully crusted spots and a delightful chewy texture. They’re then loaded with comté cheese and heaps of pulled pork for a surefire flavour explosion. If you’ve yet to feel full after the prior courses, this is sure to sort you out.
And while the desserts – rice parfait, seabuckthorn marshmallows and madeleines – don’t quite give the light, citrusy ending that you’d long for after the flavoursome meal, the drinks list somewhat makes up for it. The El Diablo ($28) sees mezcal, citrus and passionfruit blended to create a spirit-forward but sweet cocktail. On the first nose you get a strong whiff of passionfruit somewhat reminiscent of kombucha. Dark & Stormy ($28), unlike its name, is a much more refreshing rum tipple with citrus and ginger, ideal for pairing with food. Down for some wine? You won’t go wrong with a glass of Chablis ($30) or the Malbec ($30) for a red option.