One more hurrah for the rising trend of new-age hawkers going back to the traditional methods. Over at the Berseh Food Centre, Nick Soon painstakingly kneads and pinches one kueh at a time (hence the name of the stall) for his concise menu of traditional steamed pastries: soon kueh ($1), ku chye kueh ($1.20), png kueh ($1) and orh ku kueh ($1). The ku chye kueh is a winner for its silky skin and the smoky mixture of chives and shredded omelette. The less common orh ku kueh – mung bean paste encased in a black sesame-flecked glutinous rice flour pocket – is the savoury cousin to sweeter ang ku kuehs.
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